WE'RE only seeing the beginning of a major swing towards organic wines - prized by many drinkers for their truer flavours and less noxious side-effects (both to humans and the Earth). At a recent Dublin tasting, Bob Blue, winemaker for the wholly organic Bonterra range produced in California by Fetzer, revealed his subtly tempting wares, among which Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 (outlets above, usually about £11.99) was a beguiling and elegant star. An honourable addition to any dinner party. Just make your wine buff mates guess the mystery ingredient. It's 12 per cent Syrah!