There could be so many in this week of rich pickings - the Condrieu for super-wealthy winos, the Heggies for flamboyant types, the Domaine St Paul if it hadn't been honoured this year already. But the crown goes to La Bergerie de l'Hortus Classique, Vin de Pays du Val de Montferrand, Domaine de l'Hortus, 1997 (Wines Direct, details above, £7.85) simply because it's the essence of summer at an easy price. Made by the highly regarded Jean Orliac - a Montpellier University research scientist whose passion for hill-walking made him stumble across the property that changed his life - it's a light-hearted, exhilarating, anytime wine. Best consumed with sunshine, though. Start praying.