It's probably unfair to link Chateau La Freynelle Bordeaux 1997 (outlets above, usually about £6.95) with fish and chips, because the truth is that this smooth, easy-drinking and admirably affordable wine would do honour to grander fish and shellfish of all sorts. With the gooseberry freshness of Sauvignon in front, the roundness of Semillon behind, it would be lovely with plaice or lemon sole, trout, squid in crispy batter, mussels, crab - that's if there's enough left in the bottle. It's also all too tempting on its own.