The Syrah that ends up as Crozes-Hermitage - the least expensive red of the northern Rhone - can produce a wine that's too close to burnt rubber and moldering socks for general comfort. Not so Crozes- Hermitage, Delas Freres 1996 (half bottle stockists right, usually £5.99), which wraps Rhone richness in a much more seductive, soft, warm cloak. Just the thing for winter casseroles or game . . . or even a cheese sandwich.