Restaurants are one step ahead when it comes to Hugel Pinot Blanc, Cuvee les Amours, Alsace, 1996. Because, although this hidden treasure is available in only a handful of retail outlets (see above, about £8.50), it's on quite a few wine lists: the Shelbourne, the Old Dublin, Le Coq Hardi, Peacock Alley, the King Sitric, for instance, as well as Kirwan's Lane. Wine merchants groan that Alsace doesn't sell. Why are we slow to appreciate affordable and delicious wines like this one, combining fragrant appley freshness with body and length? Buck the mystery trend and buy a bottle.