Martin Moran's sunny reverie about the Hunter Valley is a reminder of how delicious (and how unjustly overlooked) Semillon from this patch of Australia tends to be. Tesco Hunter Valley Semillon 1997 (£7.99) is an easy introduction, ripe and quite weighty in the mouth but immediately lifted by lovely, lemony acidity. Try it with fish, or a pork or chicken stir-fry.