Often described as the winemaker's holy grail, fickle Pinot Noir can be superb on the rare occasions when everything goes right - but more often it's a high-price letdown, both in Burgundy and in the New World. Not so Vina Gracia Pinot Noir Relativo, Bio-Bio Valley, 1997 (outlets above, usually £7.99). From a smart new Chilean winery, it has true Pinot character - aromatic, ripe fruit with a vegetal edge, gentle spice and terrific acidity - with reasonable subtlety and length. What value! Enough to make plenty of Pinot-proud producers around the globe blush.