On a visit to Valdepenas, a hundred miles or so south of Madrid, a couple of years ago, I remember blinking in astonishment - wondering if a long Spanish lunch hadn't blurred my vision - when a man by the name of Miguel Calatayud showed how he was still fermenting some of his wines in huge clay amphorae, even though he had a ton of shiny, hi-tech equipment right next door. I hadn't seen these old terracotta jars in use before and haven't since, but any producer who keeps such a strong toehold on tradition is worth remembering. Now up pops his Neira Crianza, DO Valdepenas, 1996 (SuperValu and Roches Stores Spanish wine promotion, £5.99 until November 6th) - vinified the modern way, as it happens, but unmistakably Spanish in character. Made entirely from Cencibel (as Tempranillo is called in the south), it's nicely mature, with just the sort of spicy warmth October needs. Terrific at the price.