I'd love anybody who thinks of red Bordeaux as a tart, tannic turn-off to try Chateau de la Cour Saint-Emilion 1996 (Mitchells, Kildare St and Glasthule, £12.50). Especially with a few tender slices of lamb - for there's a touch of mint in there, along with beautifully ripe, liquorice-tinged fruit; a herbaceous quality that's spring-like without being stalky.
It comes from a 27-year-old who clearly understands how to appeal to today's drinkers without sacrificing Bordeaux character. For three pounds more, Mitchells also offer his equally silky but more intense Grand Cru 1996. Bravo!