Languedoc-Roussillon used to be the bargain basement of the French wine world. Now it has leapt on to the designer-fashion floor with wines as modern, well-made and captivating as those from any other part of the globe. Few, however, can beat La Serre Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc 1994 (Pettits, £4.99) for offering the new richness of flavour at an old-style bargain price. It was made specially for the London wine merchants Bibendum, and so popular is it proving since its launch here in the spring, that Pettits have just ordered a second container-load. We should all be finding excuses to drive to Athy, Arklow, Gorey, Enniscorthy or Wexford without delay.