EVER since Santa undid December's magic by revealing his true identity, I've liked Easter better than Christmas. It's much more relaxed, for one thing, with less off a set script and much less pressure to meet overinflated expectations.
We might raise a modest glass in acknowledgment of that. And although the weather is usually temperamental, it at least ushers in the prospect of a period of thaw - maybe even the occasional ray of sun - after three solid months of marrow chilling cold and mood-altering drizzle. That, too, deserves a toast - perhaps with a glass of racy white as a change from all the red wine we have had and will still need for inner warmth for another few weeks.
Easter also marks the end of Lent which, even in these days of significantly reduced self denial, must be an excuse for opening a few extra bottles - or perhaps just a few bottles of above average excitement. Most people would agree, I think, that it's probably not the moment to go on a mad spending spree. Wedged between recovery just about - from Christmas visa bills and summer holiday spending, the timing of this weekend of respite could be better.
Still, it beats St Patrick's Day in celebratory potential. Easter Sunday is still a time for major family get togethers; Easter Monday is a day for chummy outings to the races or up the nearest mountain to tramp off an excess of chocolate eggs. But more and more, this holiday is seen as the first weekend in the year when the notion of fleeing to the country suddenly becomes enticing. Out we go in wellingtons and anoraks to frisk with the lambs and come back as soon as is decent in need of restorative food and drink.
Whether you are host (laying in well chosen bottles) or guest (arriving with well chosen bottles) or simply orchestrating a cosy little fireside celebration of your own, a spot of advance planning is advisable. Don't wait until the very brink of Easter, when the shops are jammed with people and the wine shelves stripped of their most desirable offerings, before you venture out on a buying binge. The ones you want - classy, well priced, full of flavour - may be inclined to disappear in vast quantities twixt now and then. Just like Easter eggs.
The list below is intended to provide some inspiration across a broad spectrum of pretexts for bottle opening. For extra special indulgences, watch this space next week.
Post Lenten partying White
Domaine de Gourgazaud Chardonnay vin de Pays D'Oc 1994 (Dunnes Stores, Redmonds, Bennetts, Howth and some other outlets, £5.49-5.99)
A cracker from the south of France which will make even the Chardonnay fatigued think again - 20 notches above the average party wine in quality and yet well enough priced to keep the purchaser in buoyant form. Fresh and fruity - pleasant citrus and apple aromas and flavours and well enough balanced to quaff in quantity.
Red
Solana Red 1994 (SuperValu, Superquinn and some other outlets, £5.99)
This flavoursome hybrid - the product of collaboration between Spain's Bodegas y Bebidas and voted Wine of the Year at the London Wine Fair in 1994. Spicy, upfront cherry and plum fruitiness anchored to typical Spanish structure. Great for a supper party or just for a change.
The Easter Sunday Lunch
Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling 1994 (Superquinn, £7.99)
Roll on the Riesling revival! Be in the vanguard and serve this tongue tingling, lime flavoured example by top Australian winemaker Trevor West as a zingy aperitif - or with a fishy first course.
Chateau le Bonnat Grand vin de Graves 1993 (Quinnsworth, £9.99)
Spring lamb and good claret go hand in hand like eggs and the Easter bunny - and it would be hard to find better value than this red Graves, as rich in flavour as it is in colour (see Bottle of the Week).
Chateau Lamothe Guignard Sauternes 1990 (Dunnes Stores, £20.69)
What, St Bernard charging 20 quid for a bottle of wine? Ah, but this is gold treasure - a massively rich, honeyed Sauternes - from an excellent estate that should probably be better known.
"Forceful unctuous, thick chewy Sauternes with gobs of fruit and an exuberant personality," says American wine scribe Robert Parker, scoring it 91 out of 100. Served well chilled, it's just the thing to add flash to your Easter creme brulee - unless you have already earmarked it for a first course of pate de foie gras.
Monday, after the races or the bracing country walk
Three reds which will act as an instant restorative, with a quick, sustaining supper:
Pighin Friuli Grave Merlot 1993 (Searsons, Verlings, Terroirs, Karwig's Wine Warehouse, about £8)
A gorgeous northern Italian example of soft, inviting Merlot - this year's meteor among grapes - packed with plum and cherry flavours and with a slight smokiness which adds to its attraction. Could anything be more appetising with a heaped plate of steaming pasta . . .?
Chateau Roubaud Costieres de Nimes 1993 (Farm Produce, Kellys, Artane, Cavistons and some other outlets, £7-£7.69)
Another strong candidate from the south of France this time the eastern most appellation of the Languedoc, but as rich in character as wines from the neighbouring Rhone. Pungent with herbal aromas, laden with the flavour of sweet fruits like dates and damsons, it has a firm, dry finish. Deep, dark and different - perfect for a meaty stew.
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz (Findlaters, McCabes, verlings and some other outlets, about £13)
The luxury bottle to have in store for any time in the weekend when there's a requirement to produce an exceptional treat. This superb red is nicknamed the spoor man's Grange", because it is partly matured in the barrels used the previous year for Penfolds Grange, Australia's most famous wine. It's full bodied and amazingly rich in flavour yet elegant at the same time. If you need to justify its purchase, limit supper to a big plate of cheese and try it.