IF you're one of the (many) Irish consumers who view rosi champagne with deep suspicion, try Louis Roederer Rosi Brut 1993
(Searsons Monkstown, DeVine Wines Castleknock, Greenacres Wexford, about £49) and feel those misgivings float away. This one is delightfully delicate with a firm, lingering finish.
Not only has BTs come up with one of the best looking own-label champagnes around (as well it might), but Brown Thomas Champagne Millennium Brut, Blanc de Noirs, NV (£25) is also one of the tastiest. Toasty and full-bodied, as you'd expect from a fizz made entirely from black grapes, it comes from the house of De Venoge.
A small allocation of Champagne Bollinger RD 1981 has arrived, in time to put a sparkle in the eyes of fans of this Bollinger speciality. Vintage champagne is kept on the yeast lees for a period of many years, then disgorged and released for sale - the RD on the label indicating `recently disgorged'. The result is always powerful, rich and intriguing. If the 1981 RD is anything like the 1982 or the 1985, it will be stunning. About £100 a bottle from Mitchells Kildare St & Glasthule, Berry Bros Harry St, Cana Wines Mullingar, Octavius Sligo and some other specialists.