Take two photographs of the same woman. In the first, she is dressed in black, nondescript clothes and an untidy haircut, which indicate grooming is not among her priorities. The second shows an altogether different person: soignee, smartly turned-out, and with a newly-acquired poise. These contrasting images represent Mary Robinson immediately before and after she announced her intention to stand for President in 1990. Following advice on how to appeal to as wide a constituency as possible, she allowed her appearance to be made-over thoroughly. Mrs Robinson may now have left office to work with the United Nations, but the idea of a reversion to her prepresidential look is frankly inconceivable.
Prior to her election, political make-overs simply did not exist. Imagine Eamon de Valera, or even Patrick Hillary, taking counsel on the cut of their hair and suits. Yet when Taoiseach Bertie Ahern took over as head of Fianna Fail, he was easily persuaded to relinquish his anorak for a more statesmanlike double-breasted suit. While his Dublin accent could not be curbed, a thatch of flyaway hair was.
Mrs Robinson, on the other hand, ended up on the international best-dressed list. For her inauguration, she wore an amethyst watered silk jacket by designer Louise Kennedy, who also provided the double-breasted pinstripe suit in which she left office. "She was perfect for our tailoring," says Kennedy, adding that the former President was "never a fussy or seasonal dresser. The clothes had to perform well. That pinstripe suit, for example, was two years old."
As the current election campaign heats up, Louise Kennedy is just one of the Irish designers being visited by candidates. They are all looking for the same streamlined, seemingly effortless appearance achieved by Mary Robinson. And in order to arrive at that look, the aspiring presidents are seeking help from professional groomers. Inevitably, there is a certain similarity between what has been recommended for the four women candidates. There is a general recommendation to wear Irish clothes as much as possible, but only of a certain kind. It is highly unlikely that anyone is going to step out in one of Lainey Keogh's figure-hugging knits or a John Rocha bias-cut georgette dress, even though these are two of the country's most successful designers. All the candidates will be wearing suits in dark colours; the kind of clothes suggestive of serious purpose and not too marked a degree of fashion awareness. The overall look ought to be capable of surviving a day on the campaign trail.
Just in case a suit looks too hard-edged on any woman, it will usually be softened by a scarf draped around the neckline. Hair will be cut close to the head - the wash-and-go look which will not be disturbed by a gust of wind - and make-up kept as simple as possible. Since only Mary Banotti has previous experience of an election's travails, presidential hopefuls sensibly looked for grooming advice. Mary McAleese's office provides information on her make-over which has been supervised by stylist, Helen Coady, and make-up artist/hairdresser, Mary Bruton. Coincidentally, the latter's brother Alan Bruton was responsible for Mary Robinson's hair while she was in office. Prof McAleese's two team members have picked out a wardrobe which will comfortably take her through six weeks' electioneering. The burgundy suit she wore for the launch of her campaign - it also appears on her campaign posters - comes from Miriam Mone; other Irish designers whose clothes she will be wearing over the next few weeks include Paul Costelloe and Deborah Veale. "They're wearable, comfortable clothes which will look good in different locations throughout the day," says a member of her campaign team. Other helpful details include the information that "Mary likes welltailored trouser suits in warm colours like brown and burgundy."
Rosemary Scallon - Dana - with the advantage over rival candidates of many years in the entertainment industry, understands the importance of looking smart for the cameras. at all times. "She has been groomed over many years and learnt how to present herself," comments her publicist.
Her wardrobe includes two suits, costing approximately £600 and she expects to spend the same amount again for other clothes. No one has provided any funding for this expenditure and nor has she taken advice on her hair or makeup.
Mary Banotti, on the other hand, has decided to seek outside assistance. She has been advised by a close friend on what new clothes to buy. "They have to be practical and fashionable at the same time," according to her office. Hairdresser, Laura Friday, looks after the Fine Gael nominee's locks every day, but otherwise there has been no professional hand involved. Mrs Banotti attended Richard Lewis's fashion show last month and like many other female politicians, has long been a client of designer, Pat Crowley whose atelier is located conveniently around the corner from the Dail.
Although advised on what to purchase by the Labour Party's Anne Byrne - who also worked on Mary Robinson's campaign - Adi Roche's preference is for long skirts, so that tends to influence what suits she wears, although she did venture into a short skirt for the cover of the current Magill. For the formal announcement of her campaign last Wednesday, she chose a grape-coloured outfit by Irish design company, Yellowhammer; Kilkenny Design and Mary Gregory have also produced clothes for this candidate. Sandra Larkin looks after Ms Roche's make-up and hair which has not been cut but now, rather like her speech, is less flyaway than used to be the case. Finally, even the lone male, Derek Nally, has not been immune to the make-over. His campaign manager, John Dunne, says: "The order is in for some clothes when we get a little bit of time; there's a fair wear and tear on the suits with all this travelling."
So far, Mr Nally has managed to get a new haircut in Enniscorthy and a menswear shop in the town has promised to provide him with clothes for his forthcoming appearance on The Late, Late Show. "We plan to present him as the gentleman he is," summarises John Dunne when asked about grooming intentions. So who actually most looks the part? Ros Hubbard, an international film casting agent, says she would pick Mary McAleese. "She's bright, believable and you wouldn't be ashamed of what she said."