Check it out: new autumn-winter fashions

As Dublin Fashion Week closed yesterday, reporting a 50 per cent increase in sales, the Dandelion nightclub was the venue last…

As Dublin Fashion Week closed yesterday, reporting a 50 per cent increase in sales, the Dandelion nightclub was the venue last night for a/wear's autumn-winter catwalk presentation in front of an audience of some 500 guests.

Under headings such as "Studio 54", "Love Story" and "Disco Glam", the clothes, like the location, harked back to other decades, particularly the 1970s, echoing the continuing retro mood in fashion.

It was here in the former Dandelion Green flea market in l979, for example, that a fledging Irish band called U2 performed a memorable outdoor concert, and it was in the 1970s that Biba in London became an iconic brand that defined the childlike look of the period.

a/wear's modern takes on familiar Biba details such as purple bell-sleeved dresses, swirly satin print shifts and floppy hats opened the show. Annemarie Flood, managing director of a/wear, admits to being a long-standing fan of Biba creator Barbara Hulaniki, "because she made fashion affordable".

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Given that most a/wear items, with the exception of the coats, were less than €50, that was not surprising. Even if the coats did cost more, they were particularly good whether in pea-green wool, puffball check, grey pinstripe or luxurious black brocade.

Divided into eight sections, the show, as usual, covered most of the season's key trends. These included tartans and checks, urban utility parkas and pinafores where layering defined the look.

Slouchy "boy meets girl" trousers and T-shirts could be dressed up or down for day or evening like the loose-fitting "boyfriend jean".

Shorts were everywhere, a strong summer trend that's set to continue for winter, the alternatives being pencil or maxi skirts.

Trapeze tops and jackets are the new flattering shapes with frilled blouses and leopard print trims keeping the tailoring feminine.

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan is Irish Times Fashion Editor, a freelance feature writer and an author