THE joys of commercial icecream making have opened a new door for TV cook and food writer Darina Allen, for in a matter of months she has secured a large share of the luxury end of the market. But her venture has firmly closed another, for she has been excluded from the new board of the all-Ireland Food Safety Authority, soon to be announced by the Minister for Health, Brian Cowen. Although a 1996 Rainbow appointee, her omission from a new smaller board (again DCU president Danny O'Hare is chairman) cannot be considered score-settling, as the legislation specifically excludes commercial food producers. But the Government will regard her departure as extremely fortuitous for Darina is the most outspoken Irish food writer on the dreaded topic of genetically modified food. The issue is increasingly making the Cabinet uncomfortable in the face of growing consumer concern and the Greens campaigning in the Euro elections. Just thinking of the tangles GM food has caused for Tony Blair is enough to create an instant chill for some ministers here.