HOW alarming that women are being turned into mere background material by fashion designers. But the endless black on the catwalk at the Brown Thomas autumn collections certainly suggests something very negative.
Black is undoubtedly smart but surely not all the time and everywhere? Yes, there was some grey, chocolate brown, camel and navy, but not nearly enough. And it is decidedly odd when a long, belted camel coloured coat is applauded.
The best collections were from Gucci, whose perfect tailoring made the navy military coat, ubiquitous pinstripe trouser suit and matt jersey dress look good, and Giorgio Armani's Maui range, where there actually was a short red jacket.
Sonia Rykiel gets a hug for putting short black skirts with fuchsia and turquoise mohair jackets, and Jean Muir did something similar in canary yellow - wild by today's criteria.
There were virtually no accessories, and shoes are lumpy, though a slip on ankle boot has promise. The message is stark, bare, minimal. Go for the deadly dull and you will be avant garde.