IN her new book The Classic Herb Cookbook (Dorling Kindersley £15.99), Jill Norman points out that in the Middle Ages dill was regarded as a magic herb that would guard against witchcraft. We may not be much concerned with witchcraft these days, but dill shows its magic in the way in which it, and salt, and a few other bits and bobs transform a tranche of salmon into the splendid Gravad Lax, that most sublime cured fish. It really is especially easy to prepare, keeps well, and has many uses, so seize the seasonality of dill and salmon to make something truly special. Here is Ms Norman's recipe for Gravad Lax.
Gravad Lax
2kg (4lb) salmon, preferably a middle cut
100g (3 1/2 oz) sea salt
75g (2 1/2 oz) sugar
1 tablespoon white peppercorns, crushed
2 large bunches dill, chopped
Mustard Sauce:
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard half-teaspoon powdered mustard
1 tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
75ml (2 1/2 fl oz) sunflower or other neutral oil
4 tablespoons chopped dill
Scrape away all the scales from the salmon with the back of a knife, but leave the skin on. Slit the fish open along the backbone and take this out. Check both fillets for bones and remove them. You may find a pair of tweezers useful for this.
Combine the salt with the sugar and white pepper and rub the mixture well into the flesh of each piece.
Scatter a third of the dill over the bottom of a shallow dish just large enough to hold the salmon. Put in one piece of fish, skin side down, and cover this with another third of the dill. Put the other half of the salmon on top, flesh side down, and strew over the rest of the dill.
Cover the dish with clingfilm, then place a weighted board on top and leave in the refrigerator for at least 36, and preferably 48, hours. Turn the fish once during this time and baste it with any brine that collects in the dish.
Just before you are about to serve the salmon, combine the two mustards with the sugar, lemon juice and oil to make the sauce. Whisk together thoroughly and, when they are well blended, stir in the dill.
Drain the fish and scrape off the dill and spices, then slice it thinly on the slant and serve with the mustard sauce and bread or new potatoes. The salmon will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week, although it will start to dry out.