Dishy sushi

Should you fly to London via Stansted, take the train in to Liverpool Street Station and suddenly find yourself struck by hunger…

Should you fly to London via Stansted, take the train in to Liverpool Street Station and suddenly find yourself struck by hunger pangs, immediately head upstairs in the station complex to Moshi Moshi Sushi.

This is a small room with a high counter ringed by high chairs, as one expects from a sushi bar, and a few tables. But Moshi Moshi takes the entire concept of sushi - the Japanese culinary art-form involving seaweed, cooked rice and raw fish - a step forward, for the various dishes of sushi carousel in front of you as you sit at the bar, and as they move along you simply help yourself to whatever takes your fancy, the various styles of the dish described on little cards which sit on the counter.

And so, as some soba - mackerel - sushi trundles towards you, you simply reach out, pluck it from the carousel, lift off the lid and make merry with your chopsticks on the two pieces of fish and rice, dipping in some soy or some wasabi, while you sip some miso soup. And when the soba is gone, it is time to have some tekka maki - a ring of seaweed with rice inside and a piece of raw tuna right at the centre - or perhaps futo maki, a daring sushi where the rice is wrapped around the outside to create the covering, rather then seaweed. Finally, I had some tako - octopus - and it all made for a cracking lunch, aided by the theatre of seeing the Japanese chefs prepare the fish.

The bill is assessed by the waitress, who checks the pattern on each of the various plates which have piled up in front of you, as each pattern carries a different price for the various sushis, and Moshi Moshi Sushi proves to be good value indeed, and great fun.

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Moshi Moshi Sushi is at Ludgate Circus, Liverpool Street Station. London EC4M 7HY, tel: 0044-171-2481808