For first-time travellers to southeast Asia, Malaysia offers a soft introduction to the region, thanks to its relative wealth, its fascinating culture, and its unique ethnic mix of Malay, Indian and Chinese people. Often overshadowed by neighbouring Thailand and Bali, two of the region's most popular holiday destinations, Peninsular Malaysia is making a concerted attempt to bring in more tourism, and its weapons are the weather (hot and humid all year round), the scenery (breathtaking), and high standards of comfort and hygiene. It may be one of the more expensive countries in the region, but it can also be one of the most rewarding - and relaxing - places to visit.
The sense of calm began to descend as I settled into my comfy Business Class seat on the Malaysia Airlines flight from Heathrow. As the 747 set off on its 12-hour journey to Kuala Lumpur, we were served delicious chicken satay, with fresh mango juice to wash it down. And that was just the starter. We were also given an aromatherapy kit, consisting of numerous gels designed to keep your mind cool and your skin moisturised during the long-haul flight.
KL (as the city is better-known locally) is playing host to tomorrow's Grand Prix, and the world's top drivers will soon be zooming around the city's new Formula One track, the Sepang Circuit, situated just a 10-minute drive from the Airport. The circuit boasts the kind of state-of-the-art design which is fast becoming common in the city. A modern, bustling metropolis, KL is known as a shopper's paradise, and it is dotted with numerous labyrinthine shopping malls. It's worth spending a few hours browsing around the Bukit Bintang district, where some of the major malls are located; even if you're not tempted to buy the reasonably-priced clothes, shoes, electrical goods and cameras on display, you can still enjoy watching the parade of local people as they go about their shopping.
Despite the outward displays of wealth shown by the Petronas Towers, the Sepang Circuit, and upmarket shopping centres such as Lot 10 and KL Plaza, Malaysia has been badly hit by Asian recession, so the government has fixed the exchange rate of the ringgit in order to protect it from speculators. Visitors have to buy their ringgit when they arrive - the exchange rate is about six RM to the pound sterling. When visiting markets such as the Petaling Street night market, make sure to have cash on hand, and be ready to haggle over the price of the many counterfeit designer goods on offer.
Following a luxurious night in the five-star Ritz-Carlton hotel, where they even had someone to sprinkle petals in my bathwater, we were taken by limousine on a three-hour drive to the port of Lumut, on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia. There, a luxury cruiser waited to take us to the island of Pangkor Laut, a private resort situated beside the main island of Pangkor. The resort is owned by the YTL Corporation, one of Malaysia's largest construction and property development firms, and was officially opened in 1994 with a concert by Luciano Pavarotti. When Pav clapped eyes on Pangkor Laut, he remarked, "I nearly cried when I saw how beautiful God had made this paradise." As our cruiser docked in Royal Bay, among the many villas set out to resemble an idyllic Malaysian village, I could only manage an inarticulate "wow!"
In a recent survey by Conde Nast Traveler, Pangkor Laut was voted the No 2 island in the world, but what the hell, we'll settle for second best. A tiny island crowned by a two-million-year-old rainforest, Pangkor Laut looks like a mini version of Jurassic Park, except that the only prehistoric creatures you're likely to spot here are Monitor Lizards basking on the rocks of Emerald Bay. My villa was situated just beneath the canopy of the rainforest, and night-time was filled with the chirping of cicadas and the chattering of monkeys. You can also get a sea villa in Royal Bay, and fall asleep to the sound of water lapping against the stilts, or, if you're really flush, an entire estate in Marina Bay, where James Major and Emma Noble recently enjoyed a stay. Pangkor Laut is designed for quiet, peaceful rejuvenation, so anyone in search of Ibiza-style discos or all-night partying should give the island a wide berth. Honeymooning couples were the predominant species of holidaymaker here, and the resort affords plenty of privacy for a romantic sojourn.
Daytime activities include jungle treks through the rainforest, tennis, swimming, sea cruises, water sports, sauna and hot spa. There's no room for a golf course on the island, but if you're suffering from golf withdrawal symptoms, a Thai, Swedish or Shiatsu massage by the pool should sort you out. No sleazy stuff here, mind: all the masseurs are trained by Tibetan monks, and the effect is almost spiritual. Nights at Pangkor Laut are filled with moonlight, tranquility, and all the fine food you can eat. I can honestly say, hand on tummy, that I've never eaten so well in my life. Fresh, delicious seafood, juicy local fruits and lip-smacking sauces were the order of the day, served on big platters by smiling, helpful staff. Luxury.
It rained once during my stay at Pangkor Laut, a warm tropical torrent which lasted just one hour. This side of the Peninsula, along the Straits of Malacca, is spared much of the heavy monsoons which arrive between November and March, and even when it rains, you can still wear a swimsuit under your umbrella.
An IslandAir Skyvan scooped us out of Paradise and back to the mainland, in time to catch a Malaysia Airlines flight to Terengganu on the east coast of the Peninsula. Our destination was Tanjong Jara, a newly-renovated resort nestling along the South China Sea, and also owned by the YTL Corporation. Following an act like Pangkor Laut is tough, and Tanjong Jara certainly lacks that paradise touch. However, a Zenlike placidity permeates this resort, and the long colonnades and traditional decor conjure up visions of Buddhist temples and places of meditation.
Guests can choose to stay in Anjung (beach cottages), Serambi (ground floor rooms), or Bumbung (first floor rooms); like Pangkor Laut, these rooms are tastefully decorated in traditional Malay style, with all the mod cons of a five-star hotel-room. The resort has only recently reopened, so our visit was a sort of dress rehearsal for the 2000 season - we felt rather posh having the whole place almost to ourselves.
No time to bask in the quietude, however: on our first morning we were whisked to the island of Tenggol, where we donned snorkelling gear and swam above the coral reef, witnessing a cornucopia of brightly-coloured tropical fish and turtles. The next day we went upstream the hard way: on a gruelling day-long jungle trek to the spectacular Chemerong waterfall. Advice if you're thinking of doing such a trek: bring plenty of water and mosquito repellent, and don't even think about tigers - it's bad karma.