The last time Taiwan went to the polls, in March 1996, it was against a background of warlike noises from communist China. Beijing sent Scud ballistic missiles into the sea just off the island as a warning to voters not to support independence in the presidential election.
Taiwan will today elect a new 225-seat parliament and mayors for the cities of Taipei and Kaohsiung but this time China is not making any threats and the issue of unity has receded into the background in a boisterous, colourful campaign focussed on character issues.
A team of observers from mainland China has been virtually ignored. Whether to reunite with China or pursue final independence is still the main political question facing the island of 22 million people, which Beijing regards as a breakaway province. But the issue has not defined the debate.
Much excitement has been generated by the tight mayoral race in Taipei, between the incumbent, Mr Chen Shui-bian of the opposition Democratic Progressive Party, and the ruling Nationalist Party challenger, Mr Ma Yingjeou.
Mr Chen's hopes for the presidency depend on his ability to hold the position he won from the Nationalists in 1994. Some 400 candidates have conducted their campaigns at fever pitch, covering towns and villages with slogans, flags and photographs and holding noisy campaign rallies.
Taiwan was a one-party state until the lifting of martial law in 1987 when opposition parties were made legal. The Democratic Progressive Party was founded by local Taiwanese who support final independence from China.
The ruling Nationalist Party officially supports reunion with the mainland, but not in present circumstances.
Under Taiwan's proportional representation system, 176 parliament members are directly elected and 49 are allocated to parties.