Farm on the hill aims for highest food standards

To walk the Carneys' small farm, perched above the ocean on the south Co Waterford coast, is to regain hope that good Irish land…

To walk the Carneys' small farm, perched above the ocean on the south Co Waterford coast, is to regain hope that good Irish land might again be used to produce pure, natural food.

There are row upon row of healthy-looking onions, leeks, carrots and peas that have never been touched by chemicals. There are acres of excellent potatoes which have been only sprayed with bluestone, the traditional copper-sulphate and washing soda defence against blight.

An arched "tunnel", 130 ft by 30 ft, houses thriving peppers, tomatoes, aubergines and other vegetables which have not been "forced" with artificial fertiliser or sprayed with synthetic insecticides.

Black, pure-bred Kerry cows graze in sloping fields. Some 100 hens pick in spacious open-air runs. A few plump pigs doze contentedly in a barn which is rapidly filling with bales of hay.

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This is a working organic farm, providing fresh, uncontaminated food directly to a growing number of appreciative local consumers, a number of discriminating restaurants and some local grocery stores.

The Carneys are in the second year of their organic vegetables box scheme. From June to February, they deliver a box of mixed vegetables each week to each member of the scheme. Based on the box size they require, members pay a subscription.

The customers get a selection of whatever vegetables are in season. While the choice may be more limited than the supermarkets, the quality and the flavour of the vegetables, not to mention the satisfaction of participating in a worldwide movement towards sustainable agriculture, are appreciated by the scheme's subscribers.

Meat and free-range eggs are sold separately as and when they are available. Feedback is encouraged from the customers, who have a special relationship with the farm.

John Carney and his wife, Catherine, a biologist, recently held an open day, during which the box scheme members and their families, along with other interested parties, were able to see how the diverse products are grown.

The vegetables are grown in a healthy soil, a light, sandy loam which is improving all the time through organic farming methods.

The Carneys make up animal and poultry feeds with no growth promoters, preservatives or drugs and use natural compost.

A lot of seaweed is used and when extra fertiliser is needed an organic product is bought in. It is much lower in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sodium than the ubiquitous "10-10-20" and it is four times as expensive per unit of nutritional value, but it is in keeping with the concept of sustainable organic farming.

The crops are rotated in accordance with principles of sustainability. Customers can also order herbs, such as parsley and coriander.

Difficulties are inevitable and are overcome as they arise. "Last year we grew onions and they broke our heart," says John. This year's onion crop, however, has been planted through plastic sheeting and is thriving.

There are satisfying discoveries and successes. He has propagated willow trees which are now three years old and provide effective shelter.

Among the vegetables they are experimenting with this year is a cool-climate variety of sweetcorn, which so far seems to be taking to the Irish conditions. "I'd say we'll get a crop," says John.

The country's small but growing group of organic farmers learn mainly from each other and from trial and error. This is because the statutory advisory services, oriented towards modern high-production methods, are of little relevance to their approach. "We do a lot of farm walks," say the Carneys.

With mainstream Irish farming moving towards high-intensity, highly-mechanised and chemically-assisted methods, fewer and fewer Irish farmers are involved in vegetable production and they are growing increasing acreages of crops.

However, organic farmers like the Carneys resist the production-line methods, relying instead on the quality and purity of products cultivated in the traditional ways. Their operation is inevitably labour-intensive but they work as a family and have the back-up from time to time of recruits from the worldwide network of organic farming enthusiasts.

Their three children are keen participants in the farm's operations. Even the younger ones, Lucy (12) and Thomas (9), help by manning the on-farm organic produce shop and by milking a cow to supply the household.

Bridget Carney shoulders the burden of administration associated with the farm. John, a chartered surveyor, works as a lecturer at Waterford Institute of Technology, but is able to concentrate on the farm during the summer holidays, the peak time for farming.

The location of the Carneys' farm is idyllic, close to tiny and picturesque Portally Cove, a secluded and steep-sided inlet and beach which is a favourite swimming spot, especially after hours of strenuous hand-weeding.

The demands of this form of environmentally-friendly farming require a special form of dedication and it is no surprise to learn that the Carneys are part of a tiny Amish-Mennonite community in this area.

Related communities in the US, especially in the state of Virginia, are making a significant contribution to the retention and promotion of organic farming methods.

The Carneys may not be able to stem the tide of mass-production farming methods but they are showing, by practical example, that there is a viable and healthy alternative.