Bianca Jagger and Marilyn Monroe are the glamorous muses for Julien Macdonald and J. Maskrey next season. With Macdonald's couture debut in Paris in July, the master of the premiere dress proved himself more than able at designing serious grown-up fashion.
The theme was Spanish, picking up on a trend that first appeared in Paris last season and is continuing to influence designers. Macdonald handled its subtlety with rose-print satin peasant blouses, lots of frills, black tailoring and lace dresses.
The young Welshman's look has become much more sophisticated and polished since his glam-slam showbiz beginnings, when his dresses revealed more than they concealed. Macdonald, however, has not forsaken his glamorous pals altogether, a group of diaphanous black cobweb dresses and shimmering crystal-beaded slips held in place with a wing and a prayer still got the cheers from Joely Richardson sitting front row.
J. Maskrey is equally adept at switching on the glamour with her remarkably intricate jewelled body tattoos from which has grown a fashion collection. She is another premiere and award ceremony favourite with clients like Courteney Pine, Lauryn Hill and Andrea Corr.
Malaysian-born Maskrey, a former make-up artist, has taken her intricate Swarovski crystal-beaded body art to new heights. A firm believer that jewellery doesn't just have to dangle from earlobes or circle wrists, Maskrey creates skinsuits from black plumed stick-on tattoos this season that any showgirl would die for.
Models wearing Marilyn Monroe wigs and glossy red lips oozed sex appeal in silvery duchess satin gowns, their arms circled with crystal tattoo bands and crystal motifs snaking across their shoulders.
The showpiece though was a fine jet-beaded veil-like mask worn with a bodysuit of jet beads suspended in loops from stick-on tattoos. It was a remarkable feat of creativity that defied gravity.
Away from the glitzy world of the photo-opportunity frock comes new talented designers such as Russell Sage whose collection, ironically staged at the Haymarket Theatre, focuses on salvage chic.
This former antiques dealer has a wonderful source of antique brocades, damasks and silks. A long red cheongsam was inset with rondials of a Chinese willow pattern print and hunting pink jackets were edged with nude damask frills and slipped over black organza miniskirts. It was enlightening and innovative as Macdonald and Maskrey, but illustrates the breadth of talent at London Fashion Week.