FRANCE: Christian Dior shocked a post-war society with the lavishness of his New Look in l947, but it pales in comparison to the present-day excesses of Dior conjured up by the riotous freewheeling imagination of its current maître d', John Galliano.
At Paris Fashion Week yesterday, everything about Dior's show held in "Espace Ephemere" in the Tuileries Gardens was about extravagance and exaggeration. Models knee-deep in every imaginable shade of fur from shocking pink to dip-dyed blue, wearing massive silvered collars and bird of paradise eye make-up, looked like deranged escapees from some tropical, exotic planet.
Part of the collection was like a mad reincarnation of belle époque style with its dropped waists, fur-trimmed opera coats and "greenery yallery" combination of colours and prints. Purple moiré and tulle gowns embroidered with jet and weighty skirts with swirling hems of wired mint chiffon had models mincing along the catwalk like geishas.
In between, however, like shy wallflowers at a wild party, were sweet white dresses in embroidered georgette or delicate pale blue velvet devore, a reminder that when Galliano takes his hand off the high volume, so to speak, the sound is better.
Earlier in the day, Vivienne Westwood added another note of fantasy to the catwalk by sending up traditional elements of British country wear with a collection that opened with baggy brown cord "nappy" trousers, baggy jackets and trench coats worn over red suede knickers.
A breastplate of coloured sequins, a silver dress hung with ropes of crystal and a ragtag mix of brocades and ribbons showed no weakening of that indomitable, anarchic spirit.
How it translates onto the street is another matter entirely.
One couple with a masterly ability to interpret street trends into supremely wearable chic are Marithe and Francoise Girbaud, who have an enthusiastic following in Ireland. Their collection was notable for the central role played by shapely, form-fitting frock coats in black or grey worn equestrian style with knee-high boots. In denim, leather or even tartan, they were embellished with telling details like jewelled zips, polished buttons and even smocking or top-stitching.
Drawing everything together in a feminine way were accessories like little fur collars, delicate sprays of tiny pearls and hair drawn back into flyaway peaks. It was flattering, flamboyant and very sexy.