Does your summer holiday leave you more fatigued than fortified? Hillwalker John G. O'Dwyer makes the case for a less sedentary European break
Let's face it, we aren't the world activity holiday champions. We opt for the well-worn Mediterranean break which neatly confines our exertions to a triangle defined by pool, pub and pension - two weeks of indolence and indulgence, guaranteed to recharge blown biological batteries. Almost a million such packages are sold in Ireland each year and perhaps we shouldn't be surprised that they are chosen by many a worn-out wage slave. Indeed, it can be difficult to find an Irish tour operator offering anything other than mass tourism destinations.
But what if you end up sitting restlessly in a lounger, gazing at the same languid, listless bodies as yesterday and wishing fervently that something - anything - would happen? And what if, at the end of it all, you are more fatigued than fortified? If that rings a bell, perhaps it's time to consider a trekking holiday. Such vacations have been popular on the Continent for decades, but are only now beginning to tempt Irish participants. Aside from the obvious health-boosting dividend, the main attraction is the variety. Fraternising with the familiar is never an option, as each day offers new terrain, new challenges and new vistas. Evenings come along with a well-earned tiredness and time to ritualistically dissect the ups and downs, thrills and spills of the day over a heartily anticipated meal.
It's highly likely that friendships will be made along the way, since, surprisingly, one of the best conduits for social and cultural interaction is a wilderness walk. Why is it so uncommon for sun-worshippers to become acquainted on sardine-can beaches, while in the wilderness everyone gets to know everyone else effortlessly? At first, other walkers want information: Where did you come from? What's it like? Is it difficult? Then, with amazing rapidity, telephone numbers are exchanged and rash promises made for future get-togethers in Scotland, Co Wicklow, the Reeks or wherever. The lesson is clear - if you hate chance encounters, don't go wilderness walking.
Otherwise, wax the boots and consider an active but rewarding break, perhaps at one of the locations described below. Detailed hiking maps are available in the tourist office at each location. Nevertheless, don't go alone, stick to track walks until you gain experience - and if the weather is really bad, visit the local museum.
The following are three accessible centres for a wonderful European walking holiday.
BLED, SLOVENIA
Tantalisingly Eastern yet comfortingly Western, Slovenia has come of age and is now in the EU. It drips of stylish modernisation - except for its mountains, which have remained defiantly unaltered before Ottoman, Germanic, communist and European influences.
The Julian Alps, which rise above the lovely lakeside town of Bled, are hauntingly beautiful and endlessly dramatic, but accessible in summer and autumn to anyone with a decent pair of boots. All levels of walking are available, from a two-hour stroll around the lake to a two-day climb of Triglav (2,836 m), the highest mountain in Slovenia.
My favourite walking area is the mountain heartland 30 km southwest, in the less commercial Bohinj area. Before trying one of the many quality, high-level walks, a good start is the excellent low-level circuit of Lake Bohinj, with a diversion from the south end of the lake to visit the sylvan serenity of Savica waterfall and continue on a switchback trail to the summit of Komarca Crag, which is well worth the effort for the stunning lake views.
Getting there: Air Adria is offering direct flights from Dublin to the Slovenian capital Ljubljana - Saturday departures only. Otherwise travel with Ryanair, via Stansted, to the Italian city of Trieste, then take the train to Ljubljana. From here, Bled is just one and a half hours by bus.
ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND
Zermatt has attracted walkers to Switzerland for well over a century, to its picture-postcard location and car-free streets. It has 400 km of glorious, signposted hiking trails beneath stunning snow-capped peaks.
Almost inevitably, my favourite hike heads towards Zermatt's showpiece, the Matterhorn. Although this is not a difficult hike, the altitude rises to 3,260 m and so it should be undertaken only in late summer and autumn, when the snow should have disappeared, and also towards the end of the holiday when you are better acclimatised to altitude.
First, take the cable car to Schwartzsee and then follow the path west, over grassy mounds to the huge rocky wall of Hirli. Ascend left and then right to the ridge and follow the winding track upwards to the famous Hornli hut in about three hours with the great rock pyramid of the Matterhorn towering directly above. Return by the same route, which offers fine views down over Zermatt.
Getting there: Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin to Zurich. Then take a train south to Brig and transfer for Zermatt.
THE ALPUJARRAS, SPAIN
Imagine a walk among lemon groves, eye-wateringly white villages, chestnut woods and Alpine meadows, under the towering Sierra Nevada mountains. This is what the Alpujarras - the last outpost of Moorish culture in Europe - has on offer. It's paradise for walkers and only two hours from the heart of the Costa del Sol.
In summer, hardy hikers can climb Valetta, the second-highest mountain in mainland Spain in about five hours by following the mountain road which leads upwards from Parador, Sierra Nevada.
I prefer the easier, more scenic walks which lead in all directions from the high Alpujaran village of Capeleira. A good start is the two-and-a-half hour walk downhill to Pampaneira. However, make sure to connect with the local bus to avoid the strenuous uphill return journey.
Getting there: Take one of the many non-stop flights between Irish airports and Malaga. By bus is the most direct way to Granada. From here there are numerous connections to the Alpujarran villages.
John G. O'Dwyer is a Tipperary-based mountain leader who has walked and climbed extensively across Europe