Give Austria a chance

Full marks to the 15 producers who laid out their wares at last week's Dublin tasting of Austrian wines - for plucky optimism…

Full marks to the 15 producers who laid out their wares at last week's Dublin tasting of Austrian wines - for plucky optimism, as well as some delicious bottles.

Even though this event is now a regular fixture on the Irish wine calendar, only half a dozen Austrian companies so far sell into Ireland.

There's a general wariness here about Austrian wine - based partly on concern about price and partly on the fear that Austria's tall bottles, like those from Alsace, may remind too many consumers of sickly German Liebfraumilch.

This is a crying shame, because Austria's most elegant wines compare favourably, in both price and quality terms, with any. Not only that, but they are distinctively different: whites like Gruner Veltliner; reds such as soft, plummy St Laurent; dazzling dessert wines. International varieties such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon can also shine.

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If we don't buy them, we won't have 'em here for long! Make a start - at Terroirs, Mitchells, Searsons, some Superquinns, SuperValus and adventurous independents.