The Knitter
ALTHOUGH Liesa O'Keeffe only established Alchemy Knitwear last November, she has already lined up an impressive list of stockists across the country. Their support is a tribute to her careful preparation before she went out on her own. While studying at Cork's Crawford College of Art and Design, she was an outworker for Lainey Keogh and in her final year as a student, she entered the Knitters Into Industry Awards, going forward to the competition's finals.
A further year at Limerick School of Art and Design was followed by well selected work experience with a variety of knitwear manufacturers in Ireland.
At the same time, she also began a Crafts Council Business Development course, after which she was ready to set up Alchemy with premises in the Crescent Workshop of Kilkenny Castle yard.
The core of Alchemy's business is women's clothing, a range of comfortable separates including full length cardigan coats, dresses, tunic tops, palazzo pants and scarves. Like many Irish knitwear producers today, Liesa O'Keeffe places a strong emphasis on tactile qualities, so surface detail is an important part of her work, together with rich colouring.
Aside from the clothing, she also produces a line of cushions and throws, made from surplus yarn used in the main range. Such a pragmatic sense of economy suggests that Alchemy has an excellent future in the market.
The Crochet Maker
WHEN Irish fashion first began to receive international attention more than 40 years ago, one skill that was particularly admired was this country's crochet work. The art was introduced into this country by French orders of nuns in the last century and quickly spread in popularity. But over the last couple of decades crochet looked set to become a vanished art. However, the current vogue for lightweight knitwear, plus interest in semitransparent garments has encouraged a revival of interest and designer Caithriona McCarthy has wisely decided to capitalise on this trend. Originally from an international marketing background based in Spain, she returned home two years ago with the specific intention of raising the profile of crochet. Her business, Anam Crochet Designs, specialises in eveningwear but also offers the kind of bikini tops and short skirts not seen since the 1960s.
This is a distinctly refreshing update for crochet, giving a long established tradition a sensuous new twist. Each piece is hand crocheted, predominantly in black and white, although some items are red or else pastel. In addition to her collection, Caithriona McCarthy also accepts private commissions, with wedding dresses being particularly popular.
The Hand Painter
EVEN before leaving college, Ciaran Sweeney featured on these pages four years ago and since then, dressed in his brilliant green "party" jacket, he has become a familiar figure in Dublin. He usually stages an annual show to present his latest range of hand painted garments; the most recent of these was held last month in La Stampa restaurant and resulted in an impressive rush of orders.
All of Ciaran Sweeney's pieces are totally individual and - their distinguishing characteristic - hand painted. He has a powerfully romantic sensibility, as evinced by the mauve, lilac and pale blue colours used for his designs and the inspiration he seeks from Irish mythology. The current collection is called Lady of the Lios and is based on stories written by monks in the 12th century. Garments carry a gentle wash to show faces and figures reminiscent of stone carvings from this period.
Although he offers trousers, shirts and bias cut skirts in the range, the most alluring items are Sweeney's full length shifts and sweeping coats. There are also enveloping shawls and stoles bearing the same handpainted details. He uses a variety of pure silk fabrics such as satin crepe, French chiffon, georgette and organza, all of which enhance the ethereal nature of his designs. Over the years since graduating, he has managed to attract an impressive client list, including The Corrs, Dinah Carroll and Mairead Ni Mhaonaigh.
The Tailor
TAILORING is now such a rare skill that anyone entering this field ought to be assured of plenty of work. As yet, Patrick O'Driscoll has a small but enthusiastic clientele; his most loyal customers are his four brothers, all of whom are also engaged in creative pursuits. For sibling Jerome O Drisceoil, owner of Dublin's Green on Red Gallery, he has created a signature pair of trousers in which the fabric of one leg changes direction at the knee.
Subtle but distinctive details are the hallmarks of Patrick O'Driscoll's work, which is firmly based on traditional training. He spent four years at London's Central St Martin's, the college which has produced so many of England's famous fashion talents over the past decade. While still a student, he worked for a summer with the best known graduate from St Martin's at the moment, John Galliano. His own designs, however, are a world away from the baroque fantasies of Galliano.
Returning to Ireland, O'Driscoll apprenticed himself to a master tailor in Dublin before moving on to train with Des Leech at Hawkins Tailors on Cavendish Row. Now he offers his own made to measure clothes for both men and women, using classic fabrics such as corduroy and cavalry twill without the eventual results looking old fashioned. He sums up his approach as incorporating design "with tailoring techniques, so that clothes are original yet have bearing on reality".