After living through the 1970s and 1980s seeing television images of a South Africa that included horrific crimes against humanity, it was with a sense of curiosity and slight unease that, inspired by Rider Haggard's stories of veldt, Zulus and majestic mountains, I decided to travel around this complex country. Initially, I viewed the widespread politeness with caution. As the politeness continues I realise that it is not servitude or false but an innate trait of South Africans, a politeness that comes from respect, good manners and curiosity.
South Africa is a land of contrasts. My journey takes me from the unspoilt beauty of a game reserve to the sophistication of Cape Town and the disturbing former prison on Robben Island and shanty towns of Soweto.
Shamwari Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, close to Port Elizabeth, is, by comparison with other reserves, a baby - only 28 kilometres by seven. Established by a local businessman to reintroduce indigenous fauna to the Cape, it has a programme of breeding and maintenance of the natural environment that covers miles of bush, hills and valleys. The Born Free Foundation has a breeding programme at Shamwari and there is a programme of eradication of imported vegetation, which is a national programme that is being operated throughout South Africa.
The setting is spectacular, with only five lodges taking no more than 30 guests - my room is built into a hillside, with grass for a roof. The game drives are what you come for and that means early morning starts and numbing nights, when the temperature drops with the sun at 6 p.m., but a sundowner under a thornbush or high in the hills warms you as the sun sets.
Nothing can prepare you for the awesome beauty of coming upon a herd of elephants, lazily chomping along a trail, giraffes unconcernedly munching leaves, a white rhino caught in a spotlight or lions casually strolling around your jeep. We spent two days chasing around trying to find the elephants. How 40 huge animals can disappear so easily is a mystery. Fortunately, the jeeps are in radio contact and the rangers are conscious that we want to see as many animals as possible and we eventually come across a small herd of elephants, though the black rhinos remained hidden. A nice touch is the little book we receive, to tick off the animals we spot - a delight to mull over after returning home.
From Shamwari, we fly into Cape Town. The first glimpse of Table Mountain is awe-inspiring. Then Cape Town appears, a city of white beaches washed by blue seas, sprawling on either side of the mountain.
My introduction to the twin society of rich and poor comes on the way into Cape Town, as we pass Crossroads, acres of shanty town in the shadow of the mountain. The city, with its hilly streets, reminds me of San Francisco - though they could do with some trolley cars, as public transport is almost non-existent.
The city centre is a ghost town after dark and most tourists do not stay here.We stay on the coast in a fashionable French-style hotel, Le Vendome, in Seapoint. The centre of Cape Town has moved to the V & A Waterfront, a huge redevelopment of the docks area which houses colonial-American style shops, restaurants and bars. The Cape has top entertainment, magnificent homes, museums, efficient infrastructure and is stunningly good value.
Tours to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned, leave from the waterfront every day. We travel on the Dias, a former prison transport ship and it seems eerie to be on a boat which Mandela himself may have sailed on. The island is preserved as a national monument and tours are conducted by former prisoners, who spare no details. The outline of Table Mountain dominates the skyline but you can also make out the twelve apostles, the range of peaks that ends in the mountain.
Back in Cape Town, Table Mountain beckons, and the cable car is the quickest way to the summit, 3,000 feet up. The top is not as flat as it appears, bumpy ground is tracked through with paths and lookout points. The curious inhabitants of the mountain - dassies - scurry around the rocks, looking for handouts. These cat-sized, rodent-like animals are related to the elephant, apparently.
Close to Cape Town is Cape Point, a huge national park, and site of the famous Cape of Good Hope, where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic. It isn't the southernmost tip of Africa but is always thought of as such. This is where Captonians head out on days off to enjoy nature - climbing high up to the lighthouse to take in the view - and to wonder at the Japanese graffiti around the base.
The climate of the Western Cape is ideal for grape-growing and the province of Stellenbosch is home to dozens of vineyards. Many encourage visitors - but choosing which ones to sample can be a tough task - and for an example of Dutch town-planning, don't miss the charming town of Stellenbosch. Cape cuisine is outstanding, particularly the seafood, and dinner in a good restaurant costs under £20, including wine. Food has been influenced by the coloured population and Cape Malay cuisine is a must-try.
The best way to travel to Pretoria is on the Blue Train, South Africa's answer to the Orient Express. The 1,000-mile journey goes through the lush Western Cape, covered with vineyards and orchards, and dotted with Cape Dutch and Flemish homesteads.
The train soon begins to climb, revealing lineside towns such as Paarl, Worcester, the Victorian jewel of Marjiesfontein, on through the Hex River Valley, the Karoo and then Kimberly, famed for diamonds. By the time Pretoria arrives 26 hours later, I am reluctant to leave the comfort and serenity of the train.
Johannesburg beckons and with it, a curiosity to visit Soweto. Guarded fear is kept in check by the fascinating tour guide. Images of petrol necklaces rise to the surface to be suppressed by the smiles and waves of excited children. Mandela's former home is now a museum and houses tributes to the former president from all over the world.
In Soweto, shanty town, social housing, and mansions rub shoulders. Palls of cooking smoke stain the horizon but there is an atmosphere of comfort about it. Life goes on, and while South Africa is a country with undercurrents that a visitor can never understand, there is also an air of optimism. Everyone is working towards a new society where equality is available to all.
Staying safe
Naturally, the question of safety is to the forefront when planning a trip to South Africa. The level of violent crime remains high and visitors should be alert to muggings during the day as well as at night. There is a risk of vehicle hijacking and armed robbery. Organised tours are the safest way to see South Africa and independent travellers should exercise caution. The tourism industry is vital to the success of the new South Africa and tourists are cared for exceedingly well.
Reliable travel advice is available from the UK Foreign Office at www.fco.gov.uk/travel. Tel: 0044-2072384503.
Getting there
Sunway holidays arranges tailor-made holidays to South Africa. Activities available include safaris, golf, the Blue Train, wine tours, Sun City and more. Details from your local travel agent or 01-2886828. South African Airways flies direct from London to Johannesburg and Cape Town every day. South Africa is a year-round destination with temperatures on the Cape in winter about the same as ours in summer, and it is good value during our summer.
Naturally, the question of safety is to the forefront when planning a trip to South Africa. The level of violent crime remains high and visitors should be alert to muggings during the day as well as at night. There is a risk of vehicle hijacking and armed robbery. Organised tours are the safest way to see South Africa and independent travellers should exercise caution. The tourism industry is vital to the success of the new South Africa and tourists are cared for exceedingly well.