Daydreaming about fishing on some of Ireland's finest waters is something we all enjoy, and my game-angling dreams got real in the wilds of Connemara.
For someone with 50 years' fishing experience, I must confess the Connemara heartland had eluded me. Yes, I had seen the pictures and written numerous reports on the area, but I was about to embark on a trip to Lough Inagh, Ballynahinch and Kylemore fisheries and looking forward immensely to the experience.
Before setting out, I rang Colin Folan, fishery manager at Lough Inagh, to ask about fishing tackle. "Bring a 9ft fly rod, sink tip and floating line and all the flies you possess. Salmon, sea trout and brown trout will be our quarry," he said. Just in case, I also packed chest waders, boots, lifejacket and wet gear.
On arrival at Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel in Recess, Co Galway (my base for three days), I was stunned by the beautiful countryside. Set at the foot of the Maumturk Mountains, the hotel overlooks Lough Inagh and beyond to the Twelve Bens mountain range.
Lough Inagh Lodge is a charming country retreat with 13 tastefully appointed rooms. Originally a fishing lodge of the Berridge family, the hotel echoes that tradition in superb menus based on Connemara lamb, fish and seafood dishes. Pan-fried scallops are highly recommended.
Our first day was marred by torrential rain and strong southerly winds as we set out from the boathouse on Inagh and headed north to Deer Island. "This stretch is brilliant on its day for grilse and sea trout," Colin said. Try as we might, the Claret Mallard, Jungle Bunny and Watson's Bumble failed to boat a fish, although we did raise a few grilse and sea trout.
The afternoon session proved more productive in the quieter waters of Schoolhouse Bay. Here, we encountered a good rise to Jungle Cock patterns and managed to land several small brownies and one sea trout for Colin.
Later, bank fishing at Green Point at the lower end of the fishery provided great sport for sea trout in the fast-running sparkling clear water. The Black Pennell worked wonders in the pool below the bridge on the Clifden Road. It was here I caught my first sea trout, a real fighter of about 0.4kg.
On Saturday evening I drove to Clifden for dinner in Mitchell's restaurant on Market Street, which more than lived up to its reputation.
In the morning, Colin was waiting patiently as I hurried breakfast. "We'll try for a grilse at Derryclare Butts," he said. The Butts is where the Inagh River enters Derryclare Lake and is full of the promise of salmon. However, after 15 minutes, no takes, no fish. "The water is too low today and the wind has shifted to the west," he said.
At Ballynahinch Castle we met fishery manager Simon Ashe who pointed us towards Ballynahinch River, a delightful fly fishing river with a constant flow of clean, clear water. Together, we tested all the pools on dry fly down to the bridges or "no man's land" and managed five sea trout. Wickham's Fancy and Claret Hopper proved best patterns.
Simon was quietly confident about the return of sea trout. In 1988 their rod catch was 2,000, he said. Following the sea trout collapse, that figure reduced dramatically to 100. And, in 2004, the catch amounted to 50. However, since the closure of three salmon cage sites in Bertraghboy Bay, the rod catch so far this season has increased to 400. "These sites are now harvesting cod," he said.
After lunch it was off to Kylemore Abbey to meet fisheries manager Nigel Rush. His office is in the coach park that accommodates up to 50 coaches every day. "As a special treat I would like you to try the Rock Pool," he said. This pool, with its five fishing stands, is near the top of the Dawros River and renowned for grilse and sea trout before they ascend into Kylemore Lough.
The pool was a hive of activity, with salmon and sea trout splashing about, and all this in the shadow of the 230-year-old Benedictine abbey. Colin and I tried numerous fly patterns, including Black Buzzer, Thunder Stoat and Elk Caddis. We caught a sea trout each.
On the drive home, I reflected on the fantastic amenities available in Connemara - the stunning landscape, clean air, crystal clear waters, the wonderful hospitality. Sure, to catch a fish was a bonus. My thanks to Colin Folan, the ultimate professional angling guide. And to Simon Ashe at Ballynahinch Castle and Nigel Rush at Kylemore Abbey.
And a special thanks to Inagh Lodge proprietors Máire and Dominic O'Connor. Can't wait to return.