Who would have thought Afghanistan would out-liberalise Ireland? A year after the collapse of the Taliban regime, the conservative Islamic nation has opened its first and only hostelry, and - unlike its ancestors at home - this Irish pub won't have to close today.
Blaring folk tunes from speakers above the bar, the Irish Club was launched on a secluded side street in the heart of Kabul last month - when else but on St Patrick's Day? Since then it has become a haven for alcohol-starved diplomats and aid workers in the city.
While Good Friday won't interfere with its trade, the bar is restricted under its licence - the first of its type to be issued in the state - to serve alcohol only to foreigners.
Just inside the entrance, an Afghan bouncer keeps locals out, checking IDs and making sure patrons sign in.
The emphasis is on discretion, according to owner Mr Sean Martin McQuade, who has worked as an engineer in Afghanistan for the past 11 years.
"We wanted to keep a low profile, so we didn't advertise whatsoever. But people know where to find us. News travels fast by word of mouth."
There is no sign out front, and not even a number on the door. Inside, however, are mock-Tudor fittings, posters for Guinness Draught, and table lanterns - which come in handy during the sporadic local power cuts. Afghan waiters using pseudonyms Kevin, Jimmy, Michael and George, "to protect them from possible retaliation", serve up beer for $1.25 and cocktails for $1.90.
"Our families know what we do, but we tell other people we just work in a restaurant or a guesthouse selling food and soft drinks," said 22-year-old "Paddy".
Out front, several soldiers - paid by the bar - prowl the street with automatic weapons. Afghan drivers doze at the wheels of their 4X4 vehicles, waiting for their expatriate employers to emerge.
While the Taliban are no longer in power, Muslim conservatives continue to hold sway in Afghanistan. Just a few months ago, the country's chief justice banned cable television, complaining that its images violated Islamic morals. Of the Irish Club, the deputy supreme court justice said any Muslims found drinking there would be punished. Mr McQuade remarked: "I am sad we can't let them in, but this is a Muslim country." - (Additional reporting: AP)
