London Fashion Week opened yesterday in soaring summer temperatures with the first of more than 40 catwalk shows previewing the spring/summer 07 collections, writes Deirdre McQuillan in London.
Running until Friday, highlights include the debut of the revived 60s brand Biba, designed by Bella Freud, and the launch by Giorgio Armani of his Red Collection for Bono's African campaign.
While the majority of names on the calendar are still relative newcomers, stalwarts like Paul Smith, Betty Jackson and Jasper Conran continue to show in London despite the defection of others to Paris and New York. Nevertheless, the UK fashion industry continues to be a significant player, employing some 85,000 people and worth €5.9 billion (£4 billion) annually.
Two new guest groups are being hosted this week. One is a band of 17 young US ready-to- wear and accessory designers, the other a showcase of eco-sustainable designers committed to fair trade, organic fabrics and recycling.
One of the latter group, the Danish company Noir, made its London debut last season and grows its own cotton in Uganda. It opened the week's shows with a collection that featured sexy, skintight white trouser suits, ruffled tops and blood-red empire-line dresses using a variety of couture cottons. Pleated patent cummerbunds emphasised the waist in a show that played on feminine variations of masculine evening wear. Stocked in Ireland by Beths in Cork, Noir launches its luxury cotton brand next year.
John Rocha, the sole Irish designer taking part, produced a spirited and romantic collection mixing light fabrics with tailoring and decorative details to create his particular quirky elegance. There was a touch of 18th-century swagger in the frock coats, silver linen pannier dresses and use of ruffles, pleats and pintucking. Winning items were pleated silk tunics, check cropped trousers, daring tent dresses in black taffeta and cutaway trench coats. "These are clothes for the life we live in now," Rocha told The Irish Times, "and you can travel well with them. Layering is quite important, but in fine fabrics."
The 18th century figured appealingly in Gardem's collection, too, with highwayman shapes in delicate lingerie lace, skirts in draped platinum velvet and graceful satin dresses.
One of the best shows yesterday was that of Peter Jensen, the talented Danish designer. In cool Nordic colours, it was fresh and modern with equestrian elegance and restrained yet witty detail.