White: Galeria Bical, Caves Alianca, 1996 (Tesco/Quinnsworth, £5.49). The exciting face of Portugal is more red than white, but here's an exception - made from a grape that's native to Bairrada. Tangy, full flavours of lemon and grapefruit, in a tall bottle with stylishly restrained presentation: dark green capsule, dark green stripe on an otherwise plain label. Brilliant in every way at the price.
Le Grillaie Vernacchia di San Gimignano, Melini, 1995 (Vintry Rathgar, Superquinn Sutton and some other outlets, £7.49-£7.99). The Italians are out in front again, with an interesting, utterly delicious wine in a bottle that could have come straight off Armani's drawing board. Who knows, maybe it did. See Bottle of the Week.
Armand Riesling Kabinett, Von Buhl, 1996 (James Nicholson, Redmonds, McCabes, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Noble Rot Navan, Oddbins and other outlets, usually £8.99).
At least one producer of quality German wine realises the world has to be seduced into risking Riesling. No impenetrable mumbo-jumbo of gothic script here - and nothing naff either. Behind the simple name Armand, writ large in dark, metallic-blue letters, lies a simply lovely drink - zippily fresh, softly fruity, slightly honeyed all at once. A smashing summer aperitif . . .Red
Masi Valpolicella Classico Superiore 1996 (very widely available, usually £6.99). If you can't afford the tall, white, capital letters of the great Italian winemaker GAJA on their black background, here's a cheerful, utterly unpretentious alternative - similar in looks if not in wine style. The white letters of MASI announce a light, juicy, cherry-drenched version of Valpol from a reliable source. Very easy drinking, very versatile with food.
La Cuvee Mythique, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Les Vignerons du Val d'Orbieu, 1995 (Searsons, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, about £8.50). Here's distinctiveness of another sort: a robust, quite savoury wine from the south of France, aged for a year in oak, and oozing oomph. It comes in a bottle with the etching of a tiny owl atop a matt orange label. You can't miss it.
Barbaglio Rosso del Salento, Santa Barbera, 1993/4 (Verlings, Deveneys Dundrum, Higgins Clonskeagh, Kellys Clontarf and Artane, Vineyard Galway, Octavius Sligo, Old Stand Mullingar, Egans Drogheda and many other outlets, usually about £8.99). More Italian flair - this time applying Milanstyle designer treatment to a wine from the rustic deep south. A wonderfully rich, brambly wine which tastes impressive enough to justify its smart presentation - down to the tissue paper it comes wrapped in. Veramonte Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle Central, 1996 (Oddbins, £8.49). California's passion for slim, sexy bottles and small "painted" labels may be the reason for this Chilean's looks, since Veramonte belongs to the Rutherford-based winery Franciscan - but that's only half the story. The rest is a super concentration of smooth, intense, quite complex flavours, leading into a long, slightly peppery finish. Chateau de Flaugergues, Fut de Chene Coteaux du Languedoc La Mejanelle 1994 (Dunnes Stores, normally £9.99; special price of £8.99 until May 9th). Let's squeeze in another French favourite, full of the warm, enticing flavours of the south, but with oak-ageing lending extra body and staying power. To grab before Dunnes's wine sale ends next Saturday.