In an otherwise lacklustre year for the country's eateries, The Commons Restaurant on St Stephen's Green, Dublin, regained a coveted star in the notoriously picky Michelin Red Guide.
Just four restaurants in the Republic were deemed worthy of a star rating by the Michelin judges, according to the 2002 guide unveiled yesterday.
No Irish restaurant has won the highest award of three stars, but Patrick Guilbaud at Merrion Street and Thornton's of Portobello, both in Dublin, retained their hard-won two-star ratings.
This feat is placed in perspective by pointing out that Britain has only six restaurants of similar status.
There was also relief for chef Conrad Gallagher, who retained his one-star rating for his Peacock Alley restaurant in Dublin despite a year of financial troubles.
In the North, Shanks in Bangor and Restaurant Michael Deane in Belfast also held on to their lone stars.
Two stars were unavoidably extinguished, however, as the one-star Shiro Restaurant in Ahakista, west Cork, closed following the death of its chef-owner, and Erriseask House at Ballyconneely, Connemara, changed ownership.
Two restaurants made Michelin's Bib Gourmand list for the first time, a step below one-star while assuring "good food at moderate prices". But five lost theirs, leaving just 12 holding the honour in the Republic and four in the North.
The newcomers are Zuni in Kilkenny and the Fishy Fishy Cafe in Kinsale, while those which lost their bibs are Blueberry's, Chapter One, Ernie's and Morels, all in Dublin, and the Archway in Galway.
But then Michelin judges are not easily pleased and head chef at The Commons, Mr Aiden Byrne (28), who joined the restaurant 18 months ago, had no qualms about admitting his journey to stardom was "one long, hard year. It's not just about reaching a certain standard but keeping that standard up consistently.
"We were visited by Michelin judges 11 times in one year and they only made themselves known twice, so the other nine times could have been any time and if I had sent them out one overdone piece of meat, I would have been back down at the bottom of the list."
Aiden put his success down to "honest tasty grub", although he wishes more people who call food "grub" could afford to dine off his menu where main dishes start at about €35.
"I would love to have the opportunity to serve the same food to Joe Public but the quality of ingredients I use makes them expensive and I have no control over that."
There is one exception. His speciality, Braised Pig's Head Terrine, costs him just 60 cents per head to buy. Its elevation to a Michelin meal comes in the kitchen. "It takes four days to prepare."