A 30-year-old chef from South Armagh became the latest member of one of the most exclusive culinary clubs in the world when his Gilford, Co Down, restaurant was awarded a Michelin star, writes Liam Reid.
The Oriel Restaurant, owned by chef Barry Smyth, is this year's only newcomer in the list of Irish restaurants awarded stars in the Michelin Guide 2004 for Britain and Ireland published yesterday.
The publication of the guide proved disappointing for some ambitious chefs in the Republic, with no additions to the list of starred restaurants. However, the three restaurants on last year's list retained their stars.
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Thornton's, both in Dublin, have again received two stars, while L'Ecrivan, also in Dublin, retained its one-star rating.
Within the industry there was some surprise that Chapter One, and its chef, Mr Ross Lewis, did not earn a Michelin star.
In the Bib Gourmand category, the moderate price category, three restaurants in the Republic were deleted from the list. They included Duzy's Café, in Dún Laoghaire, which has closed, Zuni's in Kilkenny and Tyrrells in Edenderry, Co Offaly.
The Oriel joins two Northern Ireland restaurants which already have a Michelin star - Restaurant Michael Deane in Belfast and Shanks in Bangor, Co Down.
Speaking from his restaurant in the village of Gilford, Mr Smyth said he was "ecstatic" about earning a star. "It's been tough work. We've been building up the business over the last four years, working very quietly and keeping our heads down."
Mr Smyth, who is from Keady, Co Armagh, believes that because of its location away from a major city, the Oriel has often been "left out" of industry promotion and coverage of good restaurants.
"Because we're in a small village in the country, we've felt left out of it sometimes. People tend to forget about you, but we knew we were as good as any of the top restaurants in the country."
The process through which restaurants are awarded Michelin stars is still notoriously secretive. Restaurateurs do not apply for them, and they do not receive any feedback as to why their establishments fail to make the grade.
Guides such as the Michelin have also been criticised for bias towards French cuisine, and for the pressure chefs find themselves under in order to retain stars.
According to chef Paul Flynn, who owns the Tannery Restaurant in Dungarvan, the Michelin guide is still hugely important for many chefs. "In many way it's the Oscars for cooking." Mr Flynn believes that once you earn a star, "it becomes almost a lifetime commitment." He said: "If you get one, the fear is then losing one."