Modern Corkage

AS if it wasn't difficult enough to decide just where you want to eat in Cork city

AS if it wasn't difficult enough to decide just where you want to eat in Cork city. The arrival of Bodega now makes matters even more agonising.

A fine old building on Cornmarket Street which has been gutted and opened up to the light, Bodega is a snappy place, a mix of large tables which can accommodate groups and solo diners, a bar, and high tables clutched around stanchions, it is quintessentially modern, a design style accentuated by Avril McGarrity's cooking.

Baked fillet of salmon with angel hair pasta and a tomato and basil salsa; Mexican chicken kebab; gingered lamb stew; toasted ciabatta with Gruyere; and Mediterranean salad with grilled aubergine, roasted peppers and parmesan all the current notes of contemporary eating are at play. I had a rather good black and red bean chilli, with super tortillas, and a lime coriander sour cream which would have been better with some more lime and some more coriander.

The staff is excellent, and the place had a marvellous mix of mothers and babies, young people, business heads, you name it. No lunchtime dish costs more than a fiver, and the menu not only boasts "we don't use microwaves or freezers", but cleverly add: "Portable phones can cause irritation - please consider other diners", a note which should be compulsory on all future restaurant menus.