Having dwelt a few weeks back on the attractions of smoking, let's explore this week another addictive culinary condition: dependence. A few weeks back, one lunchtime, my family polished off the remains of a bottle of Trader Joe's Salsa Verde. When it was finished, we suddenly realised that we had been eating it every day, with every lunchtime tortilla and quesadilla. We then realised that we were, yip, hooked. Addicted. Dependent.
Now, just as smoking can be a happy and pretty healthy thing - in culinary terms - let us acknowledge that dependency on delicious things can be one of the happiest states known to man. And the foods that enslave us deserve our respect. So let's tip our cap to Trader Joe's Salsa Verde, because it's the sort of food you are liable to make a fool of yourself over.
Trader Joe's salsa has winged its way to us from California, brought in by Fifthsense Foods of Lisburn in Co Down, a company founded by Carol McIlroy. She is from the North, but lived for seven years in California and Colorado before returning to Lisburn and setting up her company. Fifthsense Foods is rather different from your standard food retailer, on a number of counts.
Firstly, it operates only by mail order - you peruse the range on its website, then order by phone, fax or email. Secondly, it specialises in a small number of foods, a range of comestibles, sauces and condiments which could loosely be called "boutique" foods. Finally, Fifthsense managed to secure the exclusive rights to distribute the Trader Joe range in Europe.
The Trader Joe range has been described as "the fashion leader in food in southern California", which sounds kind of crazy (what sort of foods are fashion failures? Alright then: tripe), but it is easy to see why. These are funky, hip, slick foods, and while some are relatively commonplace - balsamic vinegar, kalamata olives, arborio rice, porcini mushrooms - there is a whole range of far-out foods here, and their quality is exceptional. It seems like a strange idea to stuff enormous Californian green olives with jalapeno chillies, but the result is stunning. The curious Soy Vay Veri Veri marinades ("Our company came to be when a Jewish boy and Chinese girl met and began talking about a common interest: cooking." I am not making this up; that's what the label says) are punchy and salty and wonderful. Annie Chun's soba noodles are brilliant. And the Salsa Verde is, well, addictive - a fantastic shot of lemony tomatillos without which tortillas seem naked.
"In California, Trader Joe's is a cult, in the best sense of the word," says Carol McIlroy. "And what I love about the company is that their buyers are all real foodies - I have sat with them and talked about cashew nuts for half an hour!"
McIlroy admits that Fifthsense's products are foods she loves, and points out that they are valuable "because we all face the same dilemma every evening; what's for dinner? How can I cook something tasty in 30 minutes? We all ask that."
Trader Joe foods suit relaxed, informal, al fresco eating, as well as swift evening meals. Here is a recipe for a classic chicken fajita feast, from Richard Whittington's book, Cut- ting Edge. I would serve the Trader Joe refried black beans with this, and to make a very fast guacamole, simply stir some salsa autentica into a chopped avocado.
Chicken fajitas
"What makes fajitas appealing is the number of different elements on the table that allow you to pick and choose the filling for your tortilla: spicy stir-fried chicken, refried beans and guacamole, with a bowl of sour cream or creme fraiche, some more hot chillies for those who like them and a tomato, red onion and coriander salad. People make their own fajitas, rolling the tortillas around their chosen food and eating them with their fingers. A pitcher or two of Margaritas will turn an impromptu meal into a party."
4 skinless chicken breasts
2 onions
4 garlic cloves
2 red sweet peppers
1 fresh habanero or other very hot chilli
4 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
handful of coriander leaves to garnish
To serve:
8 large wheat-flour tortillas
refried black beans guacamole
sour cream or creme fraiche
more hot chillies (optional)
tomato, red onion and coriander salad
Cut the vegetables into strips, discarding the seeds and pith from the peppers and chilli. Sweat over a low heat in the oil for five minutes, or until soft and the onions are translucent. While they are softening, put the cumin, coriander seeds, salt and pepper into a dry, heavy iron pan over a very low heat and toast them for two to three minutes, stirring. Grind to a powder. Sprinkle the frying vegetables with the spices, then turn up the heat. Cut the chicken into strips and add to the pan, tossing and turning to cook. This takes very little time, no more than three or four minutes. Scatter over coriander leaves before bringing to the table.
Ivan Taylor's salsa cream
Here is a very simple idea for a salsa cream, from Ivan Taylor of Brown's restaurant in Derry.
2-3 large spoonfuls salsa autentica
2 tablespoons creme fraiche or thick Greek yoghurt
Mix the salsa and creme fraiche or yoghurt well. Use this as a dip for barbecued meats.
Japanese-style chicken wings
The world is powerless to resist spicy chicken wings. This recipe makes preparing them simplicity itself.
12 chicken wings
6-7 tablespoons Veri Veri Teriyaki
Paint the chicken wings with enough teriyaki to cover. Leave overnight, or for at least an hour. Bake in the oven or on a barbecue until sticky and crispy.
Fifthsense Foods, Unit 213 Lisburn Enter- prise Centre, Ballinderry Road, Lisburn, Co Antrim (tel: 0801-846-628666; fax: 628776 Website: www.fifthsense.com; email: fifthsense@dnet.co.uk) Distribution of a small variety of Fifthsense foods in the Republic is organised by Jim Donovan of the Kinsale Hamper Company (tel: 021-776180, fax: 021- 776181). The range offered is BBQ Giftpack at £20, Oriental Giftpack at £15, Mexican Giftpack at £17. Some Fifthsense foods are sold through The Yellow Door Deli, Porta- down, Roscoff Cafe, Belfast and Moyallon Foods Shop, Crowhill Road, Craigavon, Co Armagh