`Stepping ashore the `Island of the White Cow', freedom is the first thrilling sensation. Even the birds are less afraid than on the mainland. You have come to a world of heady, leisurely beauty where there are no laws, only courtesies and conventions, beyond the clutch of the troubles left behind . . ."
After the recent tragic events on Inishbofin, this description of the north Connemara island might suggest it was written some long time ago. Not so: the text was published very recently, and for most visitors this is still their experience of a very special place.
In fact, it is probably the only slightly jarring reference in a detailed and comprehensive insight to this island's submarine coastline. Published by Comhairle FoThuinn (CFT), the Irish Underwater Council, the illustrated guide encompasses all 2,700 miles of it, indentations and all - but, not surprisingly, some of the most spectacular parts are off the southern, western and north-western coasts.
The three Aran islands have nine such gems, while the "jewel" in south Connemara's crown is identified as the Skerd Rocks, about 9.5 km south-west of Mace Head near Carna.
The 30-metre granite pinnacles (80 metres if one takes in the 50 below sea level) are completely engulfed in spray and white-water in winter. In summer, they are regarded as "truly exceptional" by the contributors. Up on the inhospitable north Mayo coast, the spectacular sea stack of Dun Briste off Downpatrick Head has four to five dives around its cliffs, where crags are coated with anemones. The guide describes a spectacular canyon on the easternmost reef of the Stags of Broadhaven, and warns seal-suited visitors they may miss the entrance, as "you are usually so overawed by the rest of the reef".
Edited by John Hailes, this second edition includes new areas off the Skelligs, Valentia Island, Connemara, north Donegal and includes the wrecks off Co Antrim. It offers an additional 100 sites to those listed before. The publishers say the areas are chosen for their interesting terrain and marine life, for their safety and suitability for divers of varying levels of experience, and for availability of local support services, such as compressors and boat hire.
Emergency services, current legislation and the hazards involved are also dealt with; the council's quarterly magazine, SubSea, recently noted that there appeared to be a great reluctance among divers to report incidents to the CFT - not just small problems but more dramatic cases which could require emergency service call-out.
Among 21 diving incidents recorded last year, there were three deaths, three cases of decompression sickness, three cases of rapid ascent, six involving equipment, two involving boats and two listed under "miscellaneous".
While information on launching is covered in some sections of the guide, the approach is not comprehensive. Readers could do with knowing if a slipway is tidal or not and what state it is in. That said, the production is superbly illustrated with photographs by the award-winning Nigel Motyer, John Collins, Eddie Dunne and John Costello. The editorial team and contributors have put in a vast amount of work.
Next Sunday, CFT is due to recognise its first dive school, where accredited training courses will be run. Up till now CFT courses were held only in clubs with qualified instructors. Now, prospective divers will be able to make the most of the new facilities at the Kilkee Diving and Watersports Centre in Co Clare, where they can complete their trainee or club diver training and then join one of the 84 established clubs.
Run by John Cosgrove, the centre is fully equipped and offers depths of 10 to 45 metres for novice and experienced divers. For more details, CFT can be contacted at (01) 284 4601, and the council's guide, Underwater Ireland, is available directly from there at £12.50 paperback plus postage or from all decent bookshops.
