White
Owens Estate Sauvignon/Semillon, South Australia, 1997 (£6.49; also in Deveneys south Dublin, Costcutters Ballyboden, Spar Knocklyon, SuperValu Bayside & Portarlington: from Sept. 1 exclusive to O'Donovans in Cork and Cheers Take-Home outlets, but available elsewhere under the Mount Hurtle label). Geoff Merrill's ripe, fruity, crowd-pleasing white has both body and freshness - and, yippee, isn't Chardonnay.
Neil Ellis Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 1997 £11.99; also in Mortons Ranelagh, Terroirs Donnybrook, Deveneys south Dublin, McCabes Merrion, SuperValu Raheny & Bayside, DeVine Wines Castleknock, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, Egans Food Hall Drogheda). South African Sauvignon at its very best - pungently herbaceous, with mouth-filling fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Super stuff.
Red
Bright Brothers Douro 1996 (£7.99; also in all Superquinns, Cheers/Gibneys Malahide, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, Deveneys Harold's Cross, Redmonds Ranelagh). What a welcome change this punchy Portuguese red makes! Concentrated berry flavours with a smoky, tarry, slightly earthy edge, good acidity and a long follow-through. One for food. Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo, 1996 (£9.99; also in some Superquinns, Claudio's Wines Drury St, Cheers/Coach House Ballinteer, Deveneys Balally & Sandyford, DeVine Wines Castleknock, Vineyard and McCambridges Galway, Fine Wines Limerick, Wine Well Dunboyne, Alvinos Athlone, Greenacres Wexford and other outlets). Chilean Cabernet in a class of its own. See Bottle of the Week.
Duca San Felice Ciro Classico Riserva, Librandi, 1995 (£9.99; also in McCabes Merrion, Higgins Clonskeagh, Kellys Artane, Dalys Roscommon, Jus de Vine Portmarnock). Star smoothie from Italy's deep south - rich, dark and smouldering. Yum.
Other Cork Bottle Stops
Galvin's, Washington St; Bandon Rd; Watercourse Rd Blackpool; Douglas Rd. The best established name on the Cork wine scene for many a long year. Barry Galvin's stock reflects links with a number of major producers - like BRL Hardy of Australia, Errazuriz of Chile, Beringer of California, Italy's Frescobaldi, Laroche in Chablis, Beaucastel in the Rhone. But beer and spirits also play a vital role in these four busy off-licences. Head office tel 021 316098, fax 021 314209.
Karwig's Wine Warehouse, Carrigaline: Any true wine lover, anywhere remotely near Cork, should make the pilgrimage to Joe Karwig's or at least get hold of his list. Exquisite wines from his native Germany; top Italians (Selvapiana, Terrabianca etc), and most other key regions, with Provence shining brightly via Domaines Trevallon, Richeaume and Tempier. Tel 021 372864, fax 021 374159 , email infokarwigwines.ie
Kevin Parsons Wines, Carrigaline: The man who got Gary O'Donovan's wine education off the ground has a thriving business, orientated mainly towards restaurants. If you have one, bear in mind that he now offers James Nicholson wines alongside all the reputable names he has secured himself - New Zealand's Aotea and Milton, Francis Mahoney's Carneros Creek, surprise English sparkler Nyetimber . . . tel/fax 021 373237.
Paradiso Pleasure: Cork's hip vegetarian restaurant Cafe Paradiso has a wine list as imaginative as Denis Cotter's cooking - much of it sourced from Messrs Karwig and Parsons (see above). As his partner, Brigid Healy, hails from New Zealand, no prizes for guessing its main New World direction (try Aotea or Selaks Sauvignon Blanc, £15.50 or £16.50); but star reds include LA Cetto Zinfandel from Mexico (£12) and Tiefenbrunner Lagrein from northern Italy (£19). Six quaffable wines by the glass from £2.70; more of these, or more half bottles, would be a good move. Tel 021 277939.
Go, get that Gevrey: Cheering news for anybody who likes the sound of the superb wines of Domaine Dugat-Py, mentioned in the recent column about Burgundy. James Nicholson of Crossgar tells me he has been importing 15-20 cases via Bernard Dugat's English agent for the past four years. Currently in stock are the Bourgogne Rouge 1997, Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques 1996 and 1997, Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 1997, Charmes Chambertin 1996 and Gevrey Chambertin Coeur de Roy 1997. What joy! Tel 08 01396 830091, fax 08 01396 830028, email infojnwine.co.uk.