Menetou-Salon Morogues, Domaine Henry Pelle 1999 (Kellys, Clontarf; Sweeneys, Dorset Street & Fairview; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; SuperValu Deansgrange and Drogheda; Copes, Athy; O'Donovans, Cork and other outlets, usually about £10.99). This deliciously grassy, bracing Loire Sauvignon meets its perfect match in the deliciously fresh, delicate flavours of Mine-Gabhar goat's cheese - but it's also very good with Durrus.
Tarral Sauvignon, Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongues 1999 (Londis, Malahide; Village Wine Cellar, Baldoyle; C&T, Swords, Skerries; De Vine Wine Shop, Castleknock; Mortons, Ranelagh; Egans, Drogheda; RyanVine, Navan; O'Donovan's, Cork; Supervalu, Raheny and many other outlets, usually £6.99). With its riper, sunnier style, this southern French Sauvignon suits the garlicky overtones of Boilie, while delivering plenty of acidity to match the lactic tang of the cheese. A great buy at the price.
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Walker Bay, 1997/8 (Mitchells, Kildare Street; Vintry, Rathgar; Redmonds, Ranelagh; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock, Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; selected Superquinns; Greenacres, Wexford; De Vine Wines, Letterkenny and other outlets, usually about £14.99). An unsuspected superstar (see Bottle of the Week).
Cuvee Reserve Gewurztraminer, Alsace, Turckheim, 1998 (Oddbins, £7.99) The northern Italian Gewurz was swamped by assertive Milleens and smoked Gubbeen; this flavoursome Alsace version counters their assault perfectly with plenty of spicy body, but lively acidity too. It also works with Gabriel. Enough to convert even a Gewurz sceptic like me.
James Halliday Griffith Botrytis Semillon 1996 (Raheny Wine Cellar; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Bunch of Grapes, Donabate; RyanVine, Navan; O'Keeffes, Kilkenny and other outlets, half bottle about £8.99). This luscious sweetie, laden with apricots and dates, is a brilliant foil for Cashel Blue. "The moulds match perfectly!" exclaimed Grubb, referring not to shapes but furry growths - botrytis in the grapes and blue stuff in the cheese. But the Cashel has to be mature.
Yalumba Griffith-Barossa Botrytis Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 1997 (Berry Bros, Harry Street; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Kellys, Clontarf; McHughs, Kilbarrack; Cheers Take-Home outlets including Greystones; Delgany; Shankill; Cuckoo's Nest, Tallaght; Bennetts, Howth; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Scallys SuperValu, Blackrock, Co Cork, half bottle usually about £9.95). Stirred by the Sheridan description of mature Cashel Blue as "a national treasure, consistently gorgeous," I hunted out a second mate for it. This one has the same, fabulous, apricot allure as the Halliday with a little more perky acidity, a little less fullon richness. Take your pick.