Private equity fund Permira has secured majority control Valentino in deals worth some €500 million and will now make full bids for the Italian fashion house and its Hugo Boss menswear brand.
London-based Permira said it had agreed to buy 10.8 per cent of Valentino - known for its floor-sweeping gowns - to add to its existing 29.6 per cent stake, and that it could take another 12.4 per cent through an exchangeable bond, all at €35 per share.
The price would value the entire company at €2.6 billion.
Permira had been in exclusive talks with members of the Marzotto family over the extra stakeholdings.
Permira will now make an offer for both Valentino and its Hugo Boss German menswear business, the London-based private equity fund said. A source close to the talks said the bid could come by the end of the summer.
Under Italian law, once Permira has over 30 per cent, it has to launch a full takeover for the fashion designer.
Valentino is one of the world's most recognised style brands and analysts say private equity has the potential to expand it internationally and into younger, cheaper ranges.
A Valentino signature red gown can cost $10,000.
The elegant dresses have famously been worn by actor Sophia Loren and a host of celebrities at red-carpet events such as the annual Academy Awards ceremony.
Permira said it would de-list Valentino if its offer is successful.