This was a voyage of discovery. It could have been nothing else. In common with many of the world's wine-lovers, I knew little of Austria's qualities as a wine-producing country. It was adjacent to Germany and spoke German so it seemed logical that its wines would be Germanic in character, a character for which I had no great love or, more importantly, knowledge. And then there was that nasty business of the anti-freeze. Everybody remembered that. If I had bottles of trockenbeer enauslese for every person who greeted the knowledge of my impending visit with some cheery chuckle regarding that overblown incident, I'd be a very happy man.
Of course, I didn't realise this at the time so I merrily joined in the chuckle while wondering what lay in store. The occasion was the first VinExpo, a festival of Austrian wines held in early June. It was being staged in Vienna's Hofburg Palace, a stunning celebration of the history of Austria-Hungarian Empire with more gold leaf to the square inch than a Ruritanian prince. The aim of the festival was to help spread the word - both at home and abroad - that a revolution is taking place in the national wine industry. In addition, a number of leading international producers had been invited to display their products. But the bulk of the 2,500 wines available for tasting were from the home country.
Although Austrians have been making wines for hundreds of years, and there is a deep pride and tradition among the growers, the modern industry has been in place only since the aforementioned anti-freeze scandal in 1985. After the wide publication of this relatively small incident, the industry wisely decided to re-invent itself, placing serious emphasis on low yields and quality production (Jancis Robinson says that the average yields are half those of Germany). At the same time some of the younger growers decided to experiment with well-known varietals, planting cabarnet and sauvignon blanc alongside more traditional grapes such as gruner veltliner, riesling, traminer, neuburger, blauer zweigelt, blaufrankisch and St Laurent.
The result is an industry bursting with new talent and diversity, but seasoned with the values of experience. Yet for all the emphasis on quality, Austrian wine faces enormous problems of scale. The figures speak for themselves: according to Harpers Austria Export Directory, some 36,000 winemakers cultivate 58,000 hectares of vineyards in four main regions which in turn are divided into 16 official wine areas equivalent to appelation controlees. Total production volume is 2.5 million hectolitres (77 per cent white, 23 per cent red), of which 88 per cent is drunk in Austria. Of those making wine, 6,800 produce their own bottles while the rest deliver their grapes to large co-operatives. In effect, this means many wine-growers are actually part-time, spreading their labours across other farming products. It also means many growers have relatively small vineyards producing a limited number of bottles. To complicate matters, most "wine hewers", as they are called in Austria, cultivate a number of different grapes, so output and specialisation is stretched further. It was remarkable how many of those displaying their wines in VinExpo were tiny producers (less than 300 cases), keen to impress the international visitor but without any hope of ever servicing economically an overseas market. (Austrian wine is not cheap. This is an expensive country and the cost of wine reflects the general cost of living.)
Yet, particularly for somebody new to these wines, the quality on show was generally amazingly high. To an extent this could be expected of the country's acclaimed dessert wines - though even these were some steps beyond expectations - but the dry whites, both the zingingly fresh and the richer more measured varieties, plus the full-bodied reds were real revelations.
During the VinExpo, Vienna was undergoing an unexpected heat splurge, turning this elegant, cool jewel of middle Europe into a Mediterranean hothouse. Temperatures soared to 30C, causing grave concern among those manning the individual displays in the palace's elaborate halls. Although the palace has been modernised, there was no air conditioning so the wines started to suffer in the heat, stretching the ingenuity of cooling devices and the patience of the growers.
Even so the wines, in general, stood the test well - whatever about the attendance. The bulk of the wines were from the 1997 vintage, reportedly one of the best this century. What was most surprising was the sheer variety on show. The whites ranged from the traditional heavy-handed, acidic, high alcohol styles (much loved apparently in Austria) to leaner, fresher wines and the more full-bodied examples such as our Wine of the Week (see below), Freie Weingartner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 1995.
Initially, we sought those growers whose wines are distributed in Ireland. There are few enough, though the list is growing. First call was on Domane Muller, a fine, long-established family operation in the Weststeiermark area of Styria. All the wines tasted were very fine, but particular mention must be made of a Rheinriesling Spatlese (1979) which, the young woman at the stand insisted, was the dessert wine of her generation just as the 1969 vintage had been for her father's. This rich, golden wine proved a perfect start. This winery also produces an interesting and well-made sauvignon blanc (see below) and a 1995 full-bodied and well balanced chardonnay which benefits from 14 months in French oak. However, pride of place must go to a 1997 Pinot Gris, which, we were told, is not yet bottled but is already delicious, with its sprightly fruit flavours combining with a stunning bouquet.
From there we headed to the stand of Kulturweingut bei Tattendorf Johanneshof Reinisch, whose wines are available in Terroirs in Dublin. (see below). This winery hails from the Thermenregion area of Niederosterreic h, or Lower Austria, and has received many awards. Unfortunately, during our short visit, the framed record of the winery's many achievements was knocked crashing to the ground, leaving Johann Reinisch to literally pick up the glass pieces.
So there was a degree of stress about when we tasted his 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, which still could open up a little. A 1997 cuvee of 50 per cent chardonnay, 30 per cent sauvignon blanc and 20 per cent weisburgunder was also a touch sharpish, but there was ample compensation in a velvety 1995 Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese and his refreshing 1996 Eiswein. His 1995 pinot noir reserve was also very well made, though a little lacking in the finish. Having since then tasted an impressive earlier vintage of this wine and the cabernet (see below), I am interested to see how the years in bottle pay off so handsomely.
Stepping gingerly, we headed for the stand of Freie Weingartner Wachau, a co-op which, as its name indicates, is situated in the much-vaunted area of the Wachau in the Niederosterreich region. This is relatively a large operation with a production of more than three million bottles. It is fronted by the engaging and knowledgeable Willi Klinger who, in his role as sales and marketing director, has helped to export this company's wines to a number of countries, including Ireland where they are available in Searsons, Monkstown (see below). We tasted the 1997 versions of his company's top quality Riesling Smaragd Achleiten and its Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten. The former leaps out of the mouth with fresh fruit flavours while the latter is more dense and concentrated, but equally well made and equally as satisfying. Despite the littleness of the Irish market, there were many producers who were keen to distribute their wines here. Wineries such as Polz in southern Styria want to expand their international contacts. This operation, run by the brothers Erich and Walter Polz, produces a range of fascinating sauvignon blancs, chardonnays (known as morillon in Styria) and other white wines. Their 1997 sauvignon blanc Hochgrassnitzberg is a tingling mouthful of tropical favours while the 1996 Morillon Obegg shows restrained use of oak in its long finish. Of the rest their 1997 Pinot Gris could prove to be a very rich wine in time.
The Polz family business is growing in stature, but Willi Opitz is already there. He is the extrovert star of Austrian wine and plays it for all its worth. "I'm an Austrian. I use only Austrian grapes," he said at his stand which includes CD-roms and CDs of suitable wine-drinking music. It would all be a little garish were it not for the fact that his wines are very good, particularly his extraordinary 1995 Opitz One Zweigelt Trockenbeerenauslese. He insisted on us partaking of blue cheese with it and the combination of flavours was indeed stunning, the intense apricot sweetness of the wine shining through. His 1995 Pinot Gris Trockenbeerenauslese (tasted with melon) was only marginally less impressive.
But his tasting was only a warm-up for that of the Lang winery which is situated in the Neusiedler See (the largest lake in the country), clearly a wonderful area for noble rot wines. Helmut Lang is a cool customer, so while he poured a series of ever more delicious wines The Irish Times was given a running commentary on each by two enthusiastic local supporters who had dropped by his stand. They reserved their biggest acclaim for the 1995 Somling 88, a trockenbeerenauslese of such sublime flavours and delicate finish that we went back the next day to confirm our initial impressions. We were right. Close behind were an 1995 Ausbruch chardonnay (ausbruch is an Austrian style somewhere in sweetness between a trockenbeerenauslese and a beerenauslese), a strawberryish 1995 Pinot Noir Trockenbeerenauslese and a 1995 Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese with a luxuriously long finish. It was hedonistic stuff, remarkably consistent in its awesome quality.
There were many more growers worthy of mention, but suffice to say the gentle, friendly and interested manner of the growers generally and the quality of the wines were very welcome discoveries - if the prices were not. And though the whites and the desert wines were clearly the highlights, Austrian red wines are also on the march. However, the red wine which made the most impression was an Italian. The 1995 Il Palazzino Grosso Senese Chianti Classico was an absolute gem, deep, rich, sensuous, a glass to sweep away the aches of the day if there be such a thing in a Viennese summer.
Joe Breen travelled to Austria as a guest of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.
Red
Johanneshof Reinisch Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserve 1993 (Terroirs, Donnybrook £19.90): Drink it blind and be amazed. This is a finely judged blend of soft tannins and slightly bitter fruit that lingers long in the finish. It is certainly a lot easier to swallow than the price, but quality Austrian wine does not come cheap.
Johanneshof Reinisch Pinot Noir Reserve 1992 (Terroirs, £13.99): Notoriously difficult to produce successfully outside Burgundy, pinot takes on a more robust character in this big, distinctive yet delicate wine. Again, superbly well made and a snip (well, relative to Burgundian prices!), this opulent wine came mighty close to Wine of the Week status.
Wulkatal Blauer Zweigelt (TDL Distributors, £5.99): This is not a great example of zweigelt's possibilities, being rather staid and lacking in body and fruit, though it does have the grape's distinctive slightly bitter flavour and is quite reasonably priced.
White
Freie Weingartner Riesling Smaragd 1995 (Searson's £14.60): The smaragd label means that wines are quality and full bodied with a minimum of 12.5 per cent alcohol. This superb riesling from the impressive Achleiten area shows deliciously refreshing citrus flavours with an impressive, long finish.
Wulkatal Gruner Veltliner (TDL Distributors, £5.99): This is a rather more workaday reflection of gruner's abilities. In this manifestation it is a fresh, zingy wine, though limited in character and flavour.
Johanneshof Reinisch Chardonnay 1994 (Terroirs, £12.99): Chardonnay is hardly a key fashion accessory these days, but this creamy, luscious wine might prove a remedy. Don't expect an oakey Australian blockbuster for these wines all carry a distinctive flavour - ever so slightly bitter. It is well structured with a long finish.
Domane Muller Der Sauvignon Blanc 1995 (Mitchells, £12.95): More depth than you would expect while still retaining those distinctive, fruit-burst flavours, though they are somewhat muted. This would make a very interesting alternative to the New World offerings. The vintage available has now moved on to 1997.
Domae Muller Der Pinot Gris 1993 (Mitchells, £11.95): Beautiful floral bouquet on the nose introduces this complex wine full of fascination. There is moderate acidity and there is fruit, but mostly there is a moody richness which fills the mouth and lasts long on the finish.
Dessert Wines
Fischer Eiswein 1992 (TDL Distributors, phone 01-4130100, £14.50): The grapes for Eiswein must be picked and pressed while still frozen, to retain their distinctive sweetness. This version is made from welshriesling by a single estate producer of repute and its honeyed sweetness and contrasting acidity is both refreshing and compelling.
Fischer Trockenbeerenauslese 1995 (TDL Distributors, £12.48): This is a real mouthful in more ways than one. Trockenbeerenauslese is the heavyweight of the Austrian dessert wine world, a delicate golden blend of noble rot affected grapes. This version, made from bouvier grapes, is aromatic and addictive and worthy of investigation.