Mondoro Asti NV (very widely available, usually £9.99). Forget nasty spumante. This quite subtle and not overly sweet Italian fizz is an exhilarating partner. See Bottles of the Week.
J.P. Moscatel de Setubal Vinho Generoso, NV (Molloys, McCabes, Redmonds, Jus de Vine, half bottle £3.99£4.59). This Portuguese sweetie caused gasps of astonishment - first at the appetising aromas (oranges, dates, caramel) and then at the stunning price. Powerful stuff, with 17 per cent alcohol. Very nearly a Bottle of the Week.
D'Arenberg McLaren Vale Noble Riesling 1995 (Vintry, Deveneys, McCabes, Carvills, Fo- leys, De Vine Castleknock, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, O'Donovan's Cork, Octavius Sligo and other outlets, half bottle usually about £11.99£12.50). Another winner, this time subtly highlighting the pudding's candied peel. See Bottles of the Week.
Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux Les Deux Allees 1995 (Verlings, Thomas's Deli Foxrock, McCabes, Redmonds, bottle about £28). Made from late harvested Chenin Blanc, this famous sweet Loire wine is complex and delicious, it was generally felt, but perhaps a little swamped by the big flavours of the pudding. And oh, so expensive!