Crozes Hermitage Rouge Les Meysonniers, M. Chapoutier, 1996 (outlets as for Jadot Bourgogne Rouge above, £10.99ú11.59). One of Chapoutier's most successful wines ("it goes with every kind of meat," says Marc C.) - a luscious mouthful of blackberries with hints of liquorice and chocolate.
Hermitage La Sizeranne, M. Chapoutier, 1996 (outlets as above, £23-25). A fabulous wine that unfolds its charms gradually - as all great wines should - from the first, fragrant whiff to a fleshy, peppery, lively finish. Again, worth laying down if you can bear to.
Bargain Barbera
If Burgundy is beyond reach, try Rodona Tempranillo-Cabernet, Conca de Barbera, 1998 (all SuperValus, £4.99). Just landed in Ireland, this Catalonian is a lush, super-smooth, chocolately red - made in a popular style at an exceedingly popular price. A good anytime wine. Useful for the barbecue season . . .