Italian rugby supporters are unusually well prepared for their latest visit to Dublin, writes Frank McNally
Italy followed Ireland's lead last year with a ban on smoking in the workplace, so for cigarette-loving azzurri, the prospect of standing in pub doorways in February is not as intimidating as it would once have been.
On the contrary, Italian fans were puffing their way around Dublin last night with an enthusiasm that suggested outdoor smoking is the new national sport.
Unfortunately for them, the result of today's game is likely to be decided by non- smokers and, if the bookmakers are correct, Italy's scoring chances today will be as scarce as ashtrays in a bar.
Between puffs of smoke yesterday, the visiting fans were philosophical. Among a group outside Elverys, Stefano Gergati from Varese thought the handicappers were unduly optimistic as he predicted a 36-6 win for the home team. His friend Luca Pisciotta suggested it would be "Ireland by 10".
Ettore Negro from Milan, who worked here 10 years ago and has a "half-Irish daughter", was more worried about the appearance across the road of O'Donoghue's pub, which he distinctly remembered being in Merrion Row, half a mile away. He was relieved to learn that the original was still there and the one in Suffolk Street was new.
L'Aquila rugby club near Rome has contributed one of the biggest contingent of the 3,000-strong Italian invasion, and it was making its presence felt in nearby Grafton Street. Alessio Celli, a former hooker with the Serie A outfit, was no more hopeful about today's outcome. He thought Ireland might win 30-15, or 30-20 at best.
Farther up Grafton Street, there were some signs of optimism. "La Vita e bella," - "Life is beautiful" - said Diego Cupelli, one of a group of Italians outside Bewleys. It turned out that this was not a personal statement, however, it was just the name of a film shot in medieval Arezzo, where Diego and his friends played rugby for the local club.
The group was getting a tour of Dublin from Blackrock College old boy Justin Costello, who also played in Arezzo. With his help, Diego appeared to predict that Italy would win today, by 5-10 points, and that Brian O'Driscoll would be played off the pitch by Italian back-row Sergio Parisse.
Maybe something got lost in Justin's translation, or maybe Diego really does believe that life is beautiful.