Sequins and lace, not knits, define new Irish style

London Fashion Week: Seven Irish designers made their London catwalk debuts at the Irish Embassy yesterday on the second day…

London Fashion Week: Seven Irish designers made their London catwalk debuts at the Irish Embassy yesterday on the second day of London Fashion Week.

The Enterprise Ireland fashion show was hosted by the Irish Ambassador, Daithí O'Ceallaigh, and his wife Antoinette.

Showcasing their spring and summer 2006 collections were established names such as Aideen Bodkin, Avoca Anthology, Helen McAlinden, Quin & Donnelly and Deborah Veale. They were joined by relative newcomers N & C Kilkenny and Joanne Hynes.

"We want to nurture talents from Ireland and help them with marketing and branding to improve their image abroad," Marc Berman of Enterprise Ireland said.

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Other fashion capitals have been earmarked for similar presentations. It is hoped to have a show at the Irish Embassy in Paris next year, followed by New York in 2007.

"We are also looking at northern Europe and hoping to host an event in Copenhagen," Mr Berman said.

Though all the Irish designers have British customers, it was the first time they had shown together in London.

Each played to their own strengths, from Aideen Bodkin's sparkly dresses with sequined boleros to Helen McAlinden's classic, tailored mix of Magee tweeds, vintage lace blouses and suede jackets. Deborah Veale tied satin ribbons around her dresses and jackets, while Quin & Donnelly's array of summer coats ranged from rich brocades to Chinese embroidered silks and Irish linens.

There was surprisingly little knitwear and no common Irish identity. Avoca Anthology's collection was all about layering, with an oriental luxuriance of colour and detail.

Joanne Hynes showed a fine collection notable for its dresses, many in hand-pleated chiffons with subtle embroideries and sequins, and given a streetwise twist with stretch tulle leggings.

Elsewhere in London, shows were running more than an hour over schedule, but there were compensations. In a season majoring in dresses, Tanya Sarne of Ghost and Betty Jackson flirted with frocks and produced some delicious numbers.

Ghost's chiffon dresses were rather 1950s in feeling and were of almost spectral lightness, in tangy summer colours like lime, mint, violet, tangerine and banana. Others - in white lace, with high necks and long sleeves - had a touch of Victorian boudoir.

Betty Jackson played around with shape and big buttons; a grey bell dress had a Miss Haversham-style severity, while tent and empire-line dresses suggested maternity rather than modernity.

However, it was a big show with a lot to offer, from sweet and fresh peplum swing jackets, to full-skirted summer coats in soft silks that would flatter any figure.

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan is Irish Times Fashion Editor, a freelance feature writer and an author