As part of the ongoing pretence that it's summer, I've been enjoying some interesting white wines over the past couple of weeks. Some are new to Ireland. Others are made from grapes encountered so rarely among wine shop shelves top-heavy with Chardonnay and Sauvignon that they might as well be new. Between them, they offer a whole spectrum of intriguing flavours, with the sort of freshness we'll be gasping for, one of these fine days, if the sun decides to stop playing hide-and-seek. After a long period of white domination - common enough in countries with a high proportion of new wine-drinkers - the Irish wine market is now balanced, as far as can be ascertained, at a point of equilibrium, half white, half red, with white still the favourite among most new recruits to wine-drinking. One irritating effect of this white-for-beginners image is that some experienced drinkers seem to feel it is a sign of their serious intent almost to dismiss white wine altogether. Daft. Meanwhile, I know for a fact that I myself have reached bitter conclusions, on a winter's night, about light, white wines produced in warm countries (those fresh, fairly neutral whites of Italy, Spain and Portugal, for instance, with their faintly floral aromas and almost salty tang) on which, six months later, with the sun shining and light, summery food on the table, I have recanted. Now is the time for such wines, not in January when our shivering constitution will be screaming for a thermal lining of Amarone or Shiraz.
It strikes me this is also a good month to explore some other styles with more pronounced flavours. I love sampling Riesling in all its forms, all year round, but the dry styles with their refreshing, zippy acidity are especially welcome in summer. It's good to see exciting new Rieslings from the New World in Irish shops, helping to raise the profile of the grape and squash the myths of sweetness and naffness that cling to the German wine. The Bottle of the Week is a good example.
Another New World newcomer discovered this week is an interesting blend of Semillon and Marsanne - two white grape varieties whose smooth, rich flavours are beginning to make a name for themselves. There are plenty of other great, underexposed white grapes for which to go a-hunting around this time of year - peachy Viognier, for instance, or Spain's elegant Albarino, or the Loire's uneven but sometimes shockingly delicious Chenin Blanc. Maybe the search will help to brighten any dull days that may still be our due. One last point about white wine. Don't over-chill it. A short, sharp spell of cold works best - 45 minutes in the fridge at the most - otherwise you'll freeze the delicate life out of it.
New sensations
Galeria Bical, Caves Alianca, 1996 (Quinnsworth, £5.49). A Portuguese white, made from the Bical grape that's popular in Bairrada, which reveals very little in terms of aroma but is surprisingly assertive when it comes to taste. Tangy lemon and grapefruit round out pleasantly in the mouth.
Saumur Blanc "Tuffeau" (green bottle) 1995 (Redmonds, Deveneys, Cheers Malahide, Kellys Food Hall Monkstown, O'Donovan's Cork, usually £5.99-£6.39). Chenin Blanc can be tongue-strippingly tart in Saumur Blanc, but here appley fruit touched with honey lies behind the great rush of acidity at the start. The epitome of summery freshness. (Confusingly, a softer version in a clear bottle bears the same label, but the green one has more zing.)
Carlyle Estate Marsanne- Semillon 1995 (Verlings, Foleys Cabinteely, Fine Wines Limerick, O'Donovan's Cork and other outlets, usually £6.99-£7.49). Enticing hints of honeysuckle and a whole mixed basket of fruit flavours - oranges and apricots included - make this smooth, quite rich wine a lovely change.
Marques de Alella Clasico 1995 (Superquinn, Molloys, Vintage, Deveneys Dundrum and Goatstown, Pielows Enniskerry, Mill Maynooth, Super Valus Dalkey, Killiney, Churchtown, Shankill, Shiels Londis Malahide, usually about £7.49). Here's something different - a wine made entirely from Pansa Blanca, a grape native to the small wine zone of Alella near Barcelona. It's very attractive - zesty at first but soon working towards a soft, off-dry finish that will make you think of pineapple sprinkled with brown sugar.
Mitchelton Blackwood Park Riesling 1996 (McCabes, Foleys Cabinteely, Bennett's Howth, Bird Flanagan Rialto, Portlaoise Wine Vault and other outlets, typically £7.49-£7.99). A fine Australian, new to Ireland this summer - and tasty enough to convert wine drinkers who may be new to Riesling. See Bottle of the Week.
Piero Mancini Vermentino di Gallura 1995 (Vintry Rathgar, Cooney's Harold's Cross, Raheny Wine Cellar, Sweeney's Dorset Street, Lord Mayor's Swords, O'Lorcains Balbriggan, Callans Dundalk, O'Donovan's Cork and other outlets, usually £7.99). Now to Sardinia for a very subtle, rather stylish white wine from a skilful maker. Delicate floral aromas, gentle fruit and a nice, refreshing bite.
Albarino Organistrum, Rias Baixas, 1994 (Waterford Wine Vault, £9.95). A couple of months ago I wrote enthusiastically about Burgans Albarino from Galicia. Here comes the even more handsome big sister. For once, I'm in total agreement with Robert Parker, who dishes out 90 points (out of a possible 100): "Dense, full-bodied, scented, fruity, exotic, a seducing drink with floral peach and apricot essences, a wine with a very attractive flavour," he says. An absolute delight.
Bottle Of The Week
I'm biased: I love Riesling. So, to be on the safe side, I opened Mitchelton Blackwood Park Riesling 1996 (stockists above, usually £7.49-£7.99) with a few stern tasters. Everybody loved it, right from the initial petrolly whiff of classic Riesling through the lime and lemon-flavoured middle to a lovely touch of honey at the end. Next time, I'll try it with a Thai curry.
On the grapevine
Lap Up Limerick: For wine lovers, the high point of the Limerick Food Festival (which starts next Saturday) is Monday, August 18th. All day on Monday there will be tastings in Fines Wines outlets (including the new Gourmet's Paradise Fine Wines Food Hall on Roches Street), and various other wine shops.
In the evening, guests at a food and wine tasting in the festival marquee can absorb advice from experts such as Jacinta Delahaye, Irish Times food correspondent John McKenna, Gilbeys' Master of Wine Martin Moran and Bernadette O'Shea, the pizza revolutionary featured on this page two weeks ago. Tickets and information from the Limerick Food Centre, tel 061 302033, or the ticket venue at Limerick Tourist Centre on Arthur's Quay, tel 061 317 522.
Pettitt's Stars: The supermarket chain has some tempting bottles in its summer collection of specially chosen wines. Among the front-runners are the spicy Argentinian white, Etchart Torrontes, at just £4.99; a stylish white from Alsace, Dopff au Moulin Pinot Blanc, at £7.99, and Jamieson's Run, the glorious rich Cabernet-dominated blend from Australia's red wine heaven, Coonawarra, for £8.99. Meanwhile, the wines in Pettitt's Spring Collection are still available. Worth checking out.