Soaking up the applause . . .

Chefs hung up their aprons and restaurant owners took the day off to be wined, dined and applauded at the Four Seasons Hotel, …

Chefs hung up their aprons and restaurant owners took the day off to be wined, dined and applauded at the Four Seasons Hotel, Dublin this week. They had scallop, shrimp, veal and risotto followed by Stilton with walnut and raisin bread, and peach and raspberry tart.

The winners of the Food and Wine Magazine Restaurant of the Year Awards were announced following this six-course meal, which was prepared by the hotel's executive chef, Terry White. An emotional Derry Clarke, of L'Écrivain on Baggot Street, Dublin, was the shocked and speechless star of the show, when he picked up three awards: Chef of the Year, Best Dublin Restaurant and overall Best Restaurant of the Year.

"Our winners deserve their success," said Norah Casey, chairwoman of the judging committee. The awards programme, which was inaugurated three years ago, asks readers of Food and Wine to nominate their favourite restaurants. Those establishments receiving the highest number of votes are shortlisted and a panel of judges sets about evaluating and choosing the winners.

Harry and Mary McKeogh, of The Cherry Tree, Killaloe, Co Clare, relaxed after "a very good summer". Neven McGuire, TV chef on RTÉ1 and patron of the Mac Nean House Bistro, Blacklion, Co Cavan, which was awarded Best Ulster Restaurant, said that to succeed you have "to have a passion for what you do. I've been cooking since I was 12. You have to enjoy it. Cooking comes from the heart. I've never wanted to do anything else." His girlfriend, Imelda Maguire, sitting by his side, nodded her agreement.

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Kevin Thornton, whose restaurant relocated to St Stephen's Green last year, said: "You do cooking with soul - to the best of your ability. It's a vocation in a sense. To me it's a spiritual thing . . . I feel so privileged to be doing what I'm doing."

Joe P. O'Flynn, of Rathsallagh House, with his wife, Sarah, and his parents, Kay and Joe O'Flynn, were highly commended. The secret, he said, is "hospitality and a friendly environment for the staff. Once the staff is happy, it's infectious."