Stars come and go as `Michelin' dispenses its gastronomic awards

A Dublin restaurant has gained a star and another has lost one in the 25th edition of the Michelin Guide to Great Britain and…

A Dublin restaurant has gained a star and another has lost one in the 25th edition of the Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ire- land. The stars are awarded by the guide as a mark of "exceptional gastronomic achievement."

Peacock Alley, run by Donegal-born chef Conrad Gallagher, has received a star, less than two years after opening in South William Street, but The Commons, in St Stephen's Green, has lost the star it was first awarded in 1994. Mr Gallagher, in his late 20s, told The Irish Times yesterday: "I am delighted. It is the result of hard work." A press release issued on his behalf was more gushing, noting that he had once been described as "The Tarantino of the Kitchen," and declaring: "Today, a Michelin star award. Tomorrow? Who knows what else this entrepreneur has up his sleeve?"

Mr Gallagher, from Letterkenny, worked in New York and Monte Carlo before returning to Ireland. He has written a book on cooking.

The owner of The Commons, Mr Michael Fitzgerald, was disappointed. "We cannot explain it. It was an award that we valued greatly. We intend to get on with it and win it back next year," he said.

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"We are reinvesting in our restaurant and work has just been completed on the kitchen. Perhaps this disappointment will strengthen our resolve to do better."

The Dublin restaurant, Patrick Guilbaud, in Upper Merrion Street, remains the only holder of two stars in the Republic and Northern Ireland. "We are very pleased," said a spokeswoman. "Our achievement is based on a high standard of food and service."

As for prices in the award-winning restaurants, lunch in Peacock Alley costs £17.50 and dinner £32, while in Patrick Guilbaud lunch costs £20, dinner £45, and there is a "surprise menu" costing £65. The prices exclude wine.

Other restaurants in the Republic to retain their rating of one star are Thorntons, in Dublin; Ahakista, near Bantry, Co Cork, and the Park Hotel and Sheen Falls in Kenmare, Co Kerry. In the North, Shanks, in Bangor, Co Down, and Roscoff and Deanes, in Belfast, have also held on to their one-star rating.

Michael O'Regan

Michael O'Regan

Michael O’Regan is a former parliamentary correspondent of The Irish Times