Tasty Italians

Costeggiola Soave Classico, Guerrieri Rizzardi, 1998 (McCabes, Blackrock & Foxrock; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; O'Donovans, …

Costeggiola Soave Classico, Guerrieri Rizzardi, 1998 (McCabes, Blackrock & Foxrock; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; O'Donovans, Cork and other off-licences country wide, usually £8.99). Forget the wishywashy sort of Soave - white standby of the north. From an organic producer, this one combines ripe apple flavours with zippy lemon freshness. Delicious.

Falanghina, Sannio, Feudi di San Gregorio 1999 (Oddbins, £7.99). Sannio is a new DOC - Italy's equivalent of appellation controlee - near Naples in Campania. Too warm, you might think, to come up with a cracking white wine, but this tastes like a really good Soave - lemony, smooth and long.

Canaletto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Casagirelli, 1998 (many Super Valu outlets nationwide; Molloy's Liquor Stores; Egans, Drogheda; Wine Vault, Portlaoise; Alvinos, Athlone; Kilkenny Wine Centre and countless other off-licences countrywide, usually £6.99). Distinctively Italian flavours in an easy style, at a very easy price. See Bottle of the Week.

Masseria del Conte Salice Salentino Riserva 1997 (Dunnes Stores Italian sale, ends today, £7.99). If there's any of it left, this rich, toffee-ish Puglian red will appeal to anybody who likes a wine with plenty of oomph and the jammy flavours of the south. Very well priced.

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Fazi-Battaglia Rosso Conero 1998 (Mitchells, Kildare St & Glasthule, £9.50). Another luscious, caramelly red, this time from the Marche. Prunes, plums, vanilla, coffee, spice . . . they're all in there, in a wine that's fleshy without being overalcoholic.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 1997 (Searsons, Monkstown; DeVine Wine Shop, Castleknock; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Murtagh's, Enniskerry; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; De Vine Wines, Letterkenny and some other outlets, usually about £13.75). Overshadowed by the so-called SuperTuscans until recently, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano is regaining its noble reputation. This is a lovely, supple example, with sweet fruit and lingering, spicy grip.