When the devout yet fashionable young Turkish woman wants a new headscarf, chances are she will pop into a branch of Tekbir. Rather like an Islamic Topshop, the clothing chain has become one of Turkey's most successful retailers with outlets in every major city
Its easily recognisable silk headscarves, which owe much to Hermes and Pucci, are favourites with the country's burgeoning Islamic bourgeoisie. Upwardly mobile and confident, these women see no contradiction in being pious and following the latest fashion trends, even if that means sporting a headscarf daringly trimmed with leopard skin print.
Tekbir founder Mustafa Karaduman is from the Anatolian city of Malatya. "Yes, you could say I am one of these Anatolian Tigers," he smiles. "But in my opinion that label is already outdated. We tigers have now grown into lions."
With his funky trainers teamed with white linen trousers and matching collarless shirt, the bearded and tanned Karaduman looks more like a middle-aged Californian hippy than a conservative Muslim. But a glance at the bookcase behind his desk reveals that this is a man who takes his faith very seriously. There are volumes of Koranic commentary and Islamic jurisprudence and numerous copies of the Koran itself. Framed newspaper articles line the walls. One refers to him as the "Prophet's Couturier", another describes him as "Allah's Tailor".
"My faith means everything," Karaduman says. "It makes something of me. Without it I am nothing."
Tekbir - the name comes from the word used to refer to the act of praising God by saying Allahu Akbar - evolved from humble beginnings. He started with a sewing machine on the kitchen table more than 20 years ago, running up outfits for his wife, who complained she could not find anything suitable after they moved to Istanbul. "There was a huge gap in the market then," he says. "And now that market has become even bigger. People are becoming more devout and women want clothes to match."
These days Turkey's top models take part in Tekbir's fashion shows and the chain is about to expand to some 100 shops, including several in Germany. Karaduman is looking into the possibility of opening a branch in Britain. He already exports to Egypt and Malaysia.
Most of the company's outlets boast at least three floors of stylish clothing and accessories that conform to what Karaduman says are Islamic strictures on modest dress. Tekbir's designers have raided Turkey's museum archives for inspiration, often reworking original Ottoman designs.
The flagship Istanbul store is packed with rails of ankle-length denim coats, elegant linen tunics and floor-skimming dresses with intricate embroidery circling the hem. A lot of the stock would not seem out of place in an ordinary high street fashion chain. On the top floor, Tekbir's extensive range of formal wear includes lavishly-decorated raw silk gowns in burnt orange and shocking pink.
One product the company sells but does not manufacture itself is the Islamic swimming costume - a recent novelty in Turkey. Resembling a tracksuit more than anything else, the baggy trousers, top, cap and hood leave only the face, hands and feet uncovered. Another swimwear design features a Catwoman-like black garment worn under a loose knee-length tunic.
"Our strategy is to see all business from the perspective of what is halal [ allowed] and what is haram [ forbidden]," Karaduman says. "If I sold bikinis that would be against my religion. God has told us how we should dress. That is why I'm doing this business. It is what God has told me to do. As long as it is not haram, we can do business with everything and everybody. Obviously we're not going to deal with things like pork and alcohol, but that still leaves a lot of opportunities."
Like the industrialists of Kayseri, Karaduman believes being good at business makes him a good Muslim. "Our Prophet was a trader himself and he constantly emphasised the importance of hard work. It is part of our religion."