SOME people bring flowers or chocolates. A few bring foodie treats, and once a friend - obviously concerned that my life needed livening up - left a box of black silk stockings handsomely wrapped on the hall table. But by and large, on the threshold of a dinner party, we're a nation with bottle. Wine is always welcome. What to choose?
The less formal the gathering, the less agonising there need be. If you're off to a kitchen supper with the neighbours, or an impromptu post-rugby feed with old friends, all you need is a bottle you know and trust. A wine with an open, friendly nature - one that will mingle happily with most kinds of food should it find its way to the table. Remember that red is more popular than white (the wine merchants I quizzed estimated red's dominance in the gift stakes at 4:1). It's probably wise not to pick anything too cheap if you want to avoid (a) a skinflint reputation and (b) indigestion. Mass market branded wines may mark you out as dull, if not downright naff. Otherwise, pretty much anything goes. Problem easily solved.
But a true dinner party situation is a trickier thing entirely. You may want your proffered bottle to say several things all at once - like "Thanks for having me; I admire your sense of style and hey, I too am a person of discernment." Unless you are choosing for a wine buff - in which case you'll have to wait a few paragraphs - these requirements all point in one direction. "It's France every time," says John Mulvaney of McCabes in Mount Merrion, winners (again) of the Gilbeys/NOffLA Off-Licence of the Year Award. "People feel comfortable taking French wine to a dinner party. They feel it won't let them down."
"The French classics always come out on top in this situation," agrees Tom Deveney, who selects the wines for four thriving Deveneys off-licences in south Dublin. In my experience it's rare enough to find members of the Irish wine trade in vigorous agreement - but on this point they are as one. "We'd always recommend white Burgundy or red Bordeaux," adds Jean Gowing of the DeVine Wine Shop in Castleknock. Even Michael Gramsch of Octavius in Sligo - a man respected throughout Ireland for the superb wines he imports from his native Germany - admits France is the number one choice. "White Burgundy - Chablis or Macon. Red Bordeaux, or maybe the Rhone, where most people will pick Chateauneuf-du-Pape." (This French hegemony may be slipping slightly, though, as he's noticed his Pfalz wines in mounting dinner party demand.)
Now, wine nuts have nothing against France - au contraire, they positively revere it. But that may also mean they know its grandest regions inside out and already have a stash of bottles from their favourite producers. Tough competition, possibly, for your offering (unless you have a brilliant cellar of your own to raid, or are prepared to spend a fortune on some legendary wine in a good year). So a different tack is called for. Bring them something a bit more offbeat, I'd suggest, and you'll stand a better chance of raising a genuine smile.
Any good wine merchant should be able to help steer you towards the kind of wines that people afflicted with wine passion currently find fascinating. There are up-and-coming grapes like Riesling (both good-quality German and New World are highly prized), Marsanne, Verdelho, Viognier, Spain's new star Albarino - all whites. Red grapes on a roll are more limited, but California has Zinfandel, Argentina has Malbec and half the world, besides Burgundy, continues to have a go at stylish Pinot Noir.
As for regions to tempt the palates of the pros, there are plenty: underrated Portugal, reactivated Greece, feisty southern Italy, boutique-smart Western Australia, supercool Oregon and Washington State, to name a few. And don't forget that all wine lovers adore a bottle with a story. Something extra to boost dinner table conversation. Horsey types enjoy Chateau Vignelaure, because it's owned by trainer Vincent O'Brien's son David. Francophiles can't help being intrigued by Domaine Paul Bruno, the Chilean property of leading Bordeaux figures Paul Pontailler and Bruno Prats. Devout drinkers may relish the fact that Vina Pedrosa from Ribero del Duero is what the Pope has with his Christmas dinner.
Do wine enthusiasts who turn up with a bottle expect it to be opened that very evening? I certainly don't, but some do. I have heard of one Dublin wine merchant who actually uncorks his precious prezzie before leaving home (on the needs-time-to-breathe pretext), just so that the recipient is left in no doubt. This is going rather far, I think you'll agree. If you aren't sure what is expected of you, follow Jancis Robinson's advice: discreetly unwrap the bottle at some stage in the evening and ask the donor if they'd like to "taste" it - "taste" being a euphemism for "drink".
Around Mount Merrion, I'm told, the average spend on a dinner party bottle is around £15. No doubt the same is true in other salubrious spots. Elsewhere, the figure quoted is around a tenner (or less), so that's my target in the suggestions below. Remember, it's the taste of the wine that matters - not the price tag. Spend any extra cash on tissue paper and pretty voile ribbon, and you 'll also give your dinner party host the suspenseful pleasure of unwrapping a surprise.
Can't-go-wrong French classics
White
Guigal Cotes du Rhone, 1997 (widely available, usually £8.99). Guigal's reputation will have you off to a good start, but this is the most delicious vintage ever of his basic white - maybe because peachy Viognier now makes up 21 per cent of the blend. "People absolutely love it; it's an amazing seller," says Tom Deveney. Deservedly so.
Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Montmains, 1996 (McCabes Merrion, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock and some other outlets, £15.99-£16.50). Recommended in this column on Christmas Eve, but in case you missed it, here it comes again - nominated by McCabes as a favourite dinner party gift. A top-drawer Chablis: this is one you'll hope they open there and then.
Red
Chateau Meaume, Bordeaux Superieur, 1995. (Molloys group, Superquinn, selected SuperValus/Centras, Brady's Shankill, Thomas's Foxrock, Bennetts Howth, Bradleys Cork, Fahys Ballina, Portlaoise Wine Vault, Keegans Tullamore, Vineyard Galways, Pettitts in south-east and other outlets, £8.49-£8.99). This classic red Bordeaux - from a good year and at a good price - is another steady seller. Harmonious and appetising.
Chateau Tour de Mirail, Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois, 1995. (DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock, Deveneys group, Spar Milltown, Duffys Patrick Street, Kellys Phibsboro, Mansfields Fermoy, McNamaras Ballincollig and Kinsale and other outlets, £8.99-£9.49). An exciting new find for me - passed on by the DeVine Wine Shop where it's a top favourite among dinner guests. Lovely, concentrated, ripe fruit, approachable tannins and a long, firm finish. True panache for under £10.
Bottles to make a wine buff smile
White
Hardys Hunter Ridge Verdelho, Hunter Valley, 1996. (McLoughlins Manor Street, Cheers Take-Home at Burnaby Greystones and Gibneys Malahide, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Bennetts Howth, Centra Kilkenny, Dalys Boyle, Shannon Knights Shannon, Galvins Cork, SuperValu Blackrock, Co Cork, and other outlets, usually about £8.99). Hunter Semillon they may know all about, but Hunter Verdelho? In this pocket of Oz, the white grape of Madeira delivers a wine of character with no oak - lemony and absolutely lovely. True wine lovers should find it in their hearts to overlook the garish label.
Red
Tinto da Anfora, Vinho Regional de Alentejo, J.P. Vinhos, 1994 (SuperValus/Centras, £7.99). Above the £7 mark especially, Portugal is recognised as a key source of superb reds at ridiculously reasonable prices - and wine buffs keep trying to hunt them out. Help with this distinctive example, rich as fruitcake and slightly caramelly. It's a winner.
Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Merlot, 1997 (Oddbins, £11.99) Made in Chile by top Bordeaux wine consultant Michel Rolland (so you can drop the names Le Pin, Angelus, PapeClement, LeovillePoyferre HautLafitte etc). More to the point, this is one of the finest Chilean wines I've come across, with luscious, intense fruit kept in balance by a firm structure. Still young, though, so don't go pulling the cork prematurely.
Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County, Fetzer, 1996. (Redmonds Ranelagh, McCabes Merrion, Vintry Rathgar, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, some Molloys branches, Sweeneys Dorset Street and Fairview, Raheny Wine Cellar, McHughs Kilbarrack, Londis Malahide, Lord Mayor's Swords, Lawlors Carlow, Wine Centre Kilkenny and some other outlets, usually about £11.99). Organic wines are suddenly hot - and this Californian is extremely impressive. See Bottle of the Week.